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As Les Gara writes in his article
later in this issue, the float trip is one of the best ways for anglers
to access some of Alaska’s most beautiful and productive waters. And for
many of the more remote locations, it can be the only way.
However, the task of gearing up for a wilderness float
trip can seem overwhelming. Or, if you can picture yourself hundreds of
miles from the nearest speck of civilization, days away from scheduled
pickup, and without an essential piece of gear, it can seem downright
scary. This is one time when packing absolutely cannot become a
last-minute exercise. Lists should be made well in advance of a trip,
and referred to constantly. Worst-case scenarios should be expected and
planned for.
To aid in this endeavor, we decided to consult a few
veterans of Alaska wilderness travel to see what items they consider
essential. Knowing we’d get an eclectic range of answers in return and
hoping those answers would give each of us something to think about the
next time we sat down to compile our own packing list, we asked each for
the five items they’d not want to undertake a wilderness float without.
Here are their answers, equally good for that long weekend jaunt down
the Talachulitna or a more intensive two-week foray into a lower
Kuskokwim system.
René Limeres
Owner & Operator, Ultimate Rivers; Author
Packing for a float trip always requires balancing
personal preferences against needs. Plus, today, weight is always a
consideration when considering a remote trip, as everything you choose
to bring along must at some point go on a floatplane. Considering
today’s air taxi rates, we shave ounces on gear whenever we can.
Raft No float trip discussion can start without
beginning at the raft, and with that includes all the accoutrement
(patch kit, quality oars, etc.). Just about all modern-day rafts are
light years ahead of where they were ten years ago in terms of
portability and performance. There is a wide array of models available
to today’s consumer, each with its own application: kayaks, canoes,
catarafts, river rafts. For professional float trip use, the river
raft with inflatable floor is the best choice, primarily because the
floors of rafts lessen the chance that stowed gear (and clients!) will
fall in and be swept away. For all around use, a 13 to 14-foot size is
hard to beat, for portability, weight, and maneuverability in
difficult water.
Waterproof River Bag Here you’re looking for a bag
that’s durable, roomy, and totally waterproof. If stuff gets wet on
the trip, it can be completely worthless for the duration, threatening
your very survival. Today, some of the better models have additional
functionality, like backpack straps, which can aid greatly when
portaging or packing in. Some of the best I’ve found are made by the
same companies that make quality river rafts: SOTAR, NRS, AIRE, and
others (Cascade Designs).
Personal Shelter One of the key pieces of equipment
for survival in the Alaska Bush, no matter how you go. For remote
floats, where everything gets packed in a small plane, a tent must be
lightweight. To that end, we’ve been using mountaineering tents
professionally, but they’re really designed for mountain snowfields,
not the conditions on the gravel bars of southwest Alaska or Far East
Russia, where it rains all the time and that fine sand and grit gets
into everything. In engineering for lighter weights, they’ve made many
compromises, particularly in floor design/materials and in the doors
and structural components, so you must really shop around and possibly
improvise to find/make one that’ll fit your needs best. Some of the
best quality mountaineering tents that we have used professionally are
made by Kelty, Eureka, Mountain Hardwear, and North Face. For really
hardcore use, you can always have a tent made to your specs by Alaska
Tent and Tarp or other tentmakers.
Sleeping Bag Personally, I have a different bag for
each phase of the Alaska fishing season. I prefer premium goose down
bags for early spring and late fall, when temperatures can drop into
or below the freezing zone. During the warmest part of summer, I use a
synthetic bag, which better handles the damp conditions associated
with this time of year (particularly in Southwest). There are many
quality makers of synthetic and premium goose down bags—North Face,
Marmot, REI, and others.
Waders, Footwear On a remote float trip, your waders
better be comfortable, and work, because you’ll inevitably spend the
greater part of every day in them. (In some of the worst conditions,
you may have to literally sleep in them.) I like to bring a
combination of breathable chest waders for on the water use and some
type of rubber breakup boot or lightweight sandal for navigating
around camp. I’ve tried three or four of the popular brands, including
SIMMS, and each has its merits. Features like built-in gravel guards
and wading belts, reinforced bottoms, and truly functional straps go a
long way in the rigors of professional use. Wading boots are another
issue, as you’ll have to decide how much foot support you need versus
the amount of weight you want to slog around in all day long. I
personally prefer very lightweight shoes, for jumping in and out of
boats all day long, but durability is important, too.
E. Donall Thomas Jr.
Outdoor Writer & Photographer
I practically grew up at the oars of a MacKenzie
riverboat in the Pacific Northwest and have since made extended float
trips in locations ranging from Siberia to southern Africa. But no
venue beckons river rats like me quite like Alaska, where inflatable
rafts transported by Bush planes offer adventurous anglers access to
countless miles of prime water unreachable by any other means. But
Alaska wilderness can be unforgiving country, so my list of essential
gear has more to do with staying warm, dry, and functional than with
the fine points of angling tackle.
Frogg Toggs rain gear The first time I ran into
someone wearing this stuff, we were in a tropical flyfishing location.
Made of 100% polypropylene, it seemed utterly insubstantial, and I
dismissed it as inadequate for the Alaska environment. Intrigued by
its convenience however, I acquired a set and have become a convert.
Its principal advantage is weight and compressibility, always a factor
on fly-out trips and heavily loaded rafts. Jacket and pants roll up
into next to nothing and fit easily inside a daypack, where they will
be readily available when you need them. Despite their crumpled
newspaper feel, they prove remarkably resistant to snagging on brush,
and three years of rough wear on my first set have yet to produce a
leak. They are relatively quiet (an important consideration for those
who combine hunting and fishing on their float trips) and very
modestly priced.
Cabela’s Boundary Waters dry bags Water, water
everywhere, as the Ancient Mariner said . . . that’s an Alaska float
trip. Most angling gear will tolerate a bit of moisture, but it’s
essential to keep sleeping bags and at least some clothing dry. In
addition to being waterproof, a good dry bag should have a four-point
buckle closure system to combine security with easy access. Shoulder
straps are important when it comes time to transport gear from
floatplane lakes to rivers, and they also allow the bag to double as a
backpack. All straps and buckles should be tough and durable so you
can use them to secure the bag to the raft frame. The Cabela’s model
has all these features.
Pelican camera case The best cameras and lenses in
the world won’t do you any good if they aren’t there when you need
them, but even a tiny bit of moisture can ruin expensive photographic
gear in a hurry. I protect mine with a Pelican 1500, which will hold
two cameras with ordinary lenses, a large telephoto, and a flash in
complete security. Tied off to the raft frame at the beginning of the
trip, this case allows me to concentrate on the water and the fish
rather than worrying about my camera gear.
Hemostat Handling fish from a moving raft can be
difficult. Dragging them over the side subjects fish to unnecessary
trauma, but nets are bulky and awkward. Clipped conveniently to your
jacket, a good hemostat will allow you to release fish quickly and
easily without removing them from the water. A hemostat is also a
great tool for removing leak-causing debris from raft valves.
Leatherman tool No, not Fish Alaska’s editor . . .
although he’s certainly welcome to come along! Extensive expeditions
may justify the bulk and weight of a definitive tool kit, especially
if there are multiple rafts among which to divide a lot of gear. More
often, I simply rely on my Leatherman multi-purpose tool, which can be
used for anything from repairing a raft frame to field dressing a
caribou. Best of all, it fits easily in a pocket. (Don’t forget to
take it out before you hit security at the airport!) This little gem
has spawned a host of imitations over the years, but there’s still
nothing quite like the original.
Don’t forget to throw in a roll of duct tape, watch for sweepers
around every bend, and fish to your heart’s content.
Jeff Varvil
Co-Owner, Alaska Raft & Kayak
We have over 50 rafts in the rental pool now, making
us Alaska’s largest supplier of rental rafts. We also sell hundreds of
rafts every year and help people plan their Alaska adventures.
Planning for float trips, either my own or customers’, is something
I’ve been at for over twelve years now, and trust me, the questions
about what is truly essential to bring along are always the same.
A great repair kit Besides this, though, a person
must also have knowledge of how to use what’s in the kit. So many
people come into our store and buy glue and a one-foot piece of
material. That is worthless without the rest of the proper items. Most
people are actually unaware of what their raft is made out of, and the
Bush is definitely not a great place to learn that you have a rubber
raft and a PVC repair kit. But the basic items one needs are an awl
and thread, a roller rasp, an extra valve, and prep agent (Toulene for
rubber and Mek for PVC). An emergency ram patch is also a must! It
looks like a clamshell with a rubber gasket on one half. You simply
place the rubber-sided patch on the inside of your hole and the other
half on the outside and tighten down the wing nut. My advice is to go
to a reputable raft store and talk to the guy who actually does the
repairs. Have him build you a repair kit to take along on your next
adventure.
An extra inflation pump I never go into a float trip
with only one pump. Pumps are like Bic lighters: You may get five
years out of one and have the next last two days. I have broken the
handles on my pumps and blown plenty of rubber gaskets and hoses. They
cost anywhere from $35-$150 and are worth every penny. I use a Bravo 2
foot pump and a Wonder pump double-action hand pump sold by Northwest
River Supply. Foot pumps and hand pumps both work well, and they come
in a wide range of sizes. Take a small backup, or consider the
alternative: what will another Beaver load at $800 an hour cost you,
just to have the pilot drop one pump?
An extra oar This one cracks me up. “Up a creek
without a paddle!” How many times have you heard that? Actually, this
is the most frequent question my rental customers ask. “Do I need a
third oar?” Yes! Today’s oars are made from either aluminum or
composite shafts and they all have one thing in common—they have
removable, breakable blades that are designed to snap before the oar
does. It’s only a matter of time… The three major players in the oar
business are Carlisle, Cataract, and Sawyer. Carlisle and Cataract
have blades that will fit each other’s shafts and are what 90% of the
Alaska public utilizes.
Life jackets If you are not going to wear them,
however, I assure you they are not going to work. Only buy a life
jacket that you will wear and then test it out on a lake or in a pool
to see how it will float your body. Most of the new style PFDs are
geared with most of the floatation near the front, which enables you
to float on your back with your feet out in front of you, the theory
being it is better to bounce off obstacles with your feet rather than
your head. Good theory. They are also cut very short to keep the
jacket from riding up under your chin once you sit down. We do not
recommend the Co2 self-inflating jackets on the river because of the
chance that they might not inflate. As remote as that chance may be,
it’s your life we’re talking about. Extrasort and Lotus jackets run
around $85-$100 for what is certainly a great life jacket.
A rescue bag A 75-foot spectra rope surrounded by a
nylon bag filled with foam at one end can serve this need. This type
of bag is designed so a rafter can hold onto the rope handle and toss
the bag at an unlucky floater’s head. Once the bag hits the water, it
floats next to the person, who can then grab it and be pulled towards
shore. Rescue bags are normally yellow and orange and run around
$50-$75. I have only had to use mine once in twelve years, but it
saved a life. I also happened to be on the floater’s end once myself
when my raft overturned in Class V whitewater. They work. Plus, a
rescue bag can double as a bowline bag for lining through tough
canyons.
Dave Doucet
Owner & Operator, Alaska Frontier Floats
There are any number of things you have to think
about before preparing to undertake a float trip, and for me, first is
whether it’s a personal or professional trip, as gear needs are
decidedly different for each. However, for myself, here are five
things I wouldn’t want to be without.
Quality raingear The number one thing I prepare for
on a float trip is to stay dry. Therefore, quality raingear is a must.
I wear a SIMMS Gore-Tex Guide jacket. Not only is it completely
water/weatherproof, but it also features many design modifications
with the angler in mind.
A good layering system Once again, I use SIMMS
WaderWick underwear products to help keep me warm, dry, and
comfortable. Float trips can be hard work, so it’s important to keep
dry. Not only does the WaderWick underwear wick the sweat away from
your skin, it’s comfortable and helps keep you warm as well.
Sleeping pad When you’re on a float trip, you
willingly give up many of the comforts of home. One comfort you
shouldn’t sacrifice is a good night’s sleep, however. To that end, a
sleeping pad is cheap insurance. I personally use a Cascade Designs
Therm-a-Rest LE Long. This pad is durable, insulating, and extremely
comfortable. The downside is the price tag. At $100-plus, it’s
probably not for the recreational camper.
Polarized sunglasses Seeing the fish can increase
your chances of catching fish, seeing underwater snags can help
prevent losing lots of fishing gear, and seeing water depth can help
maneuver the boat into deeper water—all things the float-trip angler
would want to have on his side. Not only is it beneficial to be able
to see, wearing polarized sunglasses also protect your eyes from
harmful UV rays or a fly or lure as it rockets towards you. They are a
necessity when I’m on any river.
The egg-sucking leech If I had only one fly pattern
to bring on a fishing trip, it would have to be the ubiquitous ESL.
With a variety of sizes and colors, this pattern will catch nearly
every species of gamefish in Alaska, and when you can’t bring the
entire tackle shop along with you, make sure you’ve got the basics
covered.
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