Recently, due to circumstances completely beyond my
control—called
children and their grandparents—I was forced to vacate
the Great Land for
what I’m sure was two consecutive weeks of lovely
August weather . There
are worse places to visit than Montana, I fully admit,
but leaving Alaska in
the summer is never an easy thing to do; the season is
short enough without
interjecting a two-week hiatus right into the middle of
the coho run.
However, spending any amount of time at all outside our
state usually
means one thing: You get to talk a lot about it. My trip
was no different. At
a family barbecue on our day of arrival, I was
immediately thrust into the
role of Alaska travel agent by a bunch of
drought-riddled Montanans with
the 7X blues. "So," nearly every conversation began,
"where should I go in
Alaska? "
Three hours into my first dissertation on the subject,
wishing for a slide
projector and a box full of Fish Alaska back issues, I
realized again that it’s a
question a lot easier asked than answered.
In Walden, Henry David Thoreau famously wrote, "Our life
is frittered
away by detail ... Simplify, simplify." Needless to
say, he wasn’t writing
about planning a first or even a fifteenth Alaska
fishing adventure, for as
veterans of the 49th state already know, it’s all in the
details up here. There
is just too much space, with too much good water
available; the angling
possibilities are too numerous—and often, the timing too
variable—to
allow anyone to play Pin the Tail on the Map (or the
calendar , as the case
may be) and consistently create a gratifying itinerary.
Plus, and this takes
on even more significance when a planned journey
includes time to be
spent in some of the state’s endless wilderness, ill
preparedness isn’t something
that’s often forgiven in Alaska. Thus, the three hours,
and I still wasn’t
done talking.
From Dixon Entrance near Ketchikan to Point Hope, which
lies just
north of Kotzebue Sound, five species of Pacific salmon
stream back to
Alaska waters to spawn, presenting angling opportunities
at one time or
another in just about every run, riffle, and pool along
the way. Each can
also be intercepted in the salt (yes, even sockeye,
though occasions are rare),
while feeding, migrating, or staging for their first big
freshwater push.
While tooling about Alaska’s inshore waters, anglers are
also prone to favor
the region’s plentiful bottomfish, which include the
ever-popular barndoor
halibut, lingcod, and an assortment of crowd-pleasing
rockfish like
yelloweye snapper and the black sea bass. However, in
case you haven’t
noticed, we’re talking quite a few miles of coastline.
Throw in some of the
planet’s most extreme tides and a few other Last
Frontier idiosyncrasies,
and you should readily see the reasoning that lies
behind the state’s large
charter fleet.
Still, even a chartered trip requires some planning,
especially if a person
wants to mix in some freshwater angling as well. And
that’s where it can get
really tricky.
Besides the salmon, Alaska’s lakes,
rivers, and streams are home to Arctic
char, Dolly Varden in both sea-run and
resident forms, rainbow trout, steelhead,
cutthroat trout (found only in southeast
Alaska, the cutthroat also occurs as both a
sea-run and freshwater resident gamefish),
lake trout, grayling, northern pike,
sheefish, and more. Like anywhere else,
anglers will find the fishing for a particular
species better in some places than in others.
Steelhead? The lower Alaska Peninsula,
virtually anywhere in Southeast. Big
pike? Try the lower Yukon area. Trophy
trout? How about the Naknek, the
Kvichak, the Kenai? Lots of trout? Katmai,
the lower Kuskokwim River tributaries,
the upper Nushagak, the Mat-Su
Valley. The sheer breadth of the angling
opportunity is bewildering.
By this time during my impromptu little
talk, I realized that unless I’d set out to
thoroughly confuse my hopeful Alaska
travelers, and maybe myself , I wasn’t getting
very far. So, like a fly angler flummoxed
by a finicky pod of char, I changed
tactics.
"Well, what do you hope to see while
in Alaska? " I began asking. Soon thereafter
I found myself describing the majestic
temperate rainforests of Southeast, where
innumerable coastal streams run tea-colored through the thick, twisted timber
that begins at water’s edge. Glaciers came
up early and often, as did mountains with
five thousand feet of vertical face. I talked
about the sprawling muskeg of the Bristol
Bay region, the volcanic splendor of the
Alaska Peninsula, the emerald carpet of
Kodiak, and miles upon miles of unadulterated
wilderness in the northernmost
reaches of the state. And, exactly like a tactic-changing fly angler, I was getting
nowhere, again.
Then it dawned on me: November.
With this issue we inaugurate a series
of four straight special travel editions of
Fish Alaska, with each providing features
on different destinations around the state,
as well as more than a few articles geared
towards booking trips, selecting gear , and
otherwise preparing for a great Alaska
adventure. That’s all I had to say.
Simple enough, Mr. Thoreau?
—Troy Letherman
editor