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In Alaska, the glory of summer is only diminished by the fact that once
it is upon you, it is nearly gone. Unlike myself, most people out there
probably live a more balanced existence, not spending most waking
moments contemplating the next fishing trip. For those with other
interests, it can be hard to fit it all in. Due to time and budget
constraints, many folks don't have the luxury to take long journeys to
their favorite fishing holes, but still have the need to experience the
peace and tranquility of a remote experience. Others simply want to
harvest fish to eat throughout the year, and have to juggle it with all
of summer's other commitments. Still others like, but don't love to
fish, and require smaller, more palatable morsels of fishing in order to
keep the experience interesting. Then there is the standard Alaskan, who
hosts lots of friends and family each summer and needs short trips to
send them on. For all these reasons, this feature has been created to
examine the day-trip in southcentral Alaska. We’ll discuss a variety of
day-trips experienced in 2004 and list options to consider for 2005.
My companions in a five-day blitz of day-trips are two long-time
friends, Dave Calleja and John Warren. Both live on the eastern half of
Long Island, at the southern tip of New York State. Dave has been here
several times before and is an avid outdoorsman, while John enjoys a
more urban approach, and for him, this is Alaska for the first time. I
engineered a weekly agenda that I hoped would service both friends.
I figured to break John and Dave in slowly to the Land of the Midnight
Sun with a short trip float-tubing in the Mat-Su Valley followed by 18
holes at Settler’s Bay Golf course. Settler’s Bay is a challenging, yet
fair course, and is in the best shape that I have ever seen it in. Many
people don't equate Alaska with golf, but on the contrary, there are 6
excellent, 18-hole courses between Anchorage, Palmer and Wasilla.
Many of the streams in the Mat-Su Valley, like Willow, Montana, and
Sheep creeks and the Little Susitna and Deshka rivers, hold resident
species such as rainbow trout, Dolly Varden, and Arctic grayling as well
as healthy runs of the five species of salmon. An early morning float,
powerboat journey, or hike-in fishing trip would be a nice compliment to
a round of golf at Settler's Bay or Palmer golf course. We chose to
float tube and were not disappointed. Here’s a recap.
A bright blue sky showed promise of a long day with many options. Dave and
John woke early, mostly due from the 4-hour time difference and ensuing jet lag.
A short drive to Long Lake and thorough dousing of bug dope later, we head down
the hill to the lake. Upon entering the lake, we rig up our 4 to 6-weight
rods, matched with floating line with 8-foot leaders tapered to 2X tipper.
We'll start with olive lake leeches.
The first fish that is landed acts like a teacher's pet, performing admirably
for the rest of the class. Stripping about 15 feet of line in front of me
in the lake, I start to show my friends the basic overhead casting motion and
after a few false casts lay the line on the water. I'm narrating as I go
and explain that if they are having difficulty throwing line, then they can
simply strip out a bunch of line and kick themselves away from the fly, when a
marauding rainbow slams the sinking leech. Most of the time, I catch fish
on a leech that is moving, either through trolling or stripping the fly.
When I'm having trouble finding fish, I'll kick around the perimeter of the lake
doing both in unison. It surprised all - most of all me - to have a fish
on the first cast within 10 seconds of starting. I explained to John and
Dave that most casts would go fishless, but from the look on their faces, it's
clear that they don't believe me.
By morning's end, we've landed a handful of fish and lost a few others.
They have seen fish hooked while trolling, by casting and stripping the fly, and
by casting to and intercepting moving fish. Dave and John have each learned the
basics of fly-casting and both are immediately hooked by the tranquility of the
sport. After the trip, Dave ruminates on the float-tubing experience: “I really
enjoyed floating on the lake. It was great fun to cast a fly rod and fish for
rainbow trout. I’m going to look for some places to float tube when I get home.”
This type of trip is affordable, relaxing, and usually less crowded than a day
spent on the region’s salmon choked rivers. Make sure to have a pair of quality
flippers, as these are your means of propulsion.
Rising early the next morning, we head back to
Settler’s Bay to play a round of golf before meeting Wayne Norris at
Willow Creek for a lower river float for kings. The river is quiet, a
bad sign that the kings have not yet arrived, but positive for a
peaceful float. Most road accessible rivers in southcentral Alaska bear
significant traffic during salmon season, so don’t go expecting a
remote, unpopulated fishing trip. But the rivers are very productive and
like most of Alaska, there is always something to see. We teach John and
Dave a variety of techniques from nymphing with a fly rod, to casting
spinners and spoons with baitcasters. Halfway through the trip, Dave
takes over on the oars, and by the end of the float, he is learning to
maneuver the raft down the narrow, winding Willow. Here is an important
point: We caught no fish, but everyone had fun. My guests learned more
fishing techniques and Dave got his feet wet at the oars of a cataraft.
Another important point is to realize that their expectations were
reasonable —they simply wanted to enjoy the fishing and the catching
would have been a bonus.
Day
three gives John and Dave their first taste of a fly-out experience.
Providing the flight is Willow Air, a family-based company that provides
fishing (both drop-off and guided), flight-seeing, drop-offs to various
wilderness lodges, drop-off hunting, float trip transportation, and bear
viewing in their Beaver and Supercub aircraft. Located in Willow, the
planes depart directly from the float pond at their office at Mile 70 on
the Parks Highway.
Our day would be spent fishing for pike at Alexander
Lake with Alaskan Custom Expeditions. In addition to guided trips on
Alexander Lake, Travis Laing’s company provides day-trips on Mat-Su
Valley rivers like Montana, Sheep, Willow and Little Willow, a trophy
program for big rainbows, and a helicopter program that spans five full
days and four nights. The heli program allows Travis to bring plenty of
gear and to provide a more luxurious camp.
Steve
White has been flying for Willow Air for seven years and expertly pilots
the Beaver to Alexander Lake, a short 20-minute flight away. Travis’s
head guide Kyle joins us and will captain one boat with Dave and John,
while Travis and I fish from a second boat. On John’s second cast he
hooks a pike. Later he reflects, “ I had a great time. Today was
terrific. I knew it would be a good day when I had a fish on my second
cast.” In all, we caught at least 50 pike, from 18 to 30 inches, among
the three of us. Using topwater flies like frogs, ’Wogs, and mouse
patterns, and subsurface streamers with dumbbell eyes, I landed many
fish on a 6-weight rod. Dave and John saw good results with the standard
fare of spoons and spinners. One commonality between all the riggings
was a short section (18-24 inches) of steel bite tippet. Pike have very
sharp and plentiful teeth, so in addition to steel leaders, I bring a
long pair of pliers for removing hooks.
Travis and Kyle epitomize the traits that I associate
with good guides. Both are friendly, outgoing, skilled, and
knowledgeable, and most of all, get genuinely excited when their clients
catch fish. I was glad to have good guides to teach my friends about
pike fishing—it reflects positively on all of Alaska when visitors both
enjoy their time in the state as well as feel like they were treated
with respect. Ultimately, a traveler’s impression of Alaska is not only
based on the fishing and scenery, but also on the guides and service
providers.
On day four, saltwater fishing is on the menu. We
depart for Deep Creek from my house in Chugiak at a bleary 4:30 a.m. to
meet Ron Gillham of Golden Eagle Charters mid-morning at the Deep Creek
boat launch. Ron is a seasoned captain that came to Alaska in the early
80s on a construction job and never left. He has been in business since
1988 and offers saltwater fishing for salmon and halibut from Deep
Creek, kings and silvers on the Kenai and Kasilof, and silvers from
Seward.
We arrive at Deep Creek to the usual crowd of excited
fishermen and departing boats. Both Anchor Point and Deep Creek have
become immensely popular for halibut and salmon fishing, and with the
tractor-assisted beach launches provided by companies at both locations,
these destinations are accessible for charter boats and private vessels
alike. Joining us is a couple from Nebraska and Ron’s son and fellow
captain, Tony. Ron’s 28-foot custom-built boat is well powered to cover
water quickly and the 16-mile journey is a short ride. We fish with
5-foot custom rods, Penn 16s International Gold spooled with 135- pound
Izorline. Tides are moderate, and it takes three-pound weights to get
herring and cod-baited circle hooks to the bottom.
After catching a few fish, we pull anchor and move to
a spot where we can drift over pods of fish. We are able to reduce the
size of the weights, with one and two-pound leads allowing us to keep
the bait near the bottom and our lines vertical as we drift along.
Fishing is brisk, with several fish on more often than not. A limit of
halibut between 10 and 35 pounds is caught—perfect size for eating—and
we head back to the boat launch.
The schedule finds us with Ron the next day on the
Kenai River for kings. Ron has recently built a cabin on his property in
Deep Creek and he graciously allows us to stay the night after our day
of saltwater fishing. Before retiring to the cabin to cook some fresh
halibut, we take a scenic drive to Homer, where the guys ooh and ahh
from the breathtaking views of Cook Inlet and Kachemak Bay.
5:30 a.m. is usually a good time to roll over and go
back to sleep, but not during fishing season. Arriving in Soldotna at
this early hour, we meet Ron and head to River Quest RV Park to launch
Ron’s boat. We will move up and down the lower river in sear ch of
Chinook. We will back-troll a Luhr-Jensen K-16 on certain rods and a
Spin n’Glo setup on others. Both rigs will include a size 20 Jet
Diver—also made by Luhr- Jensen—to get the lure to the right depth in
the river. Ron has us carefully measure the amount of line let out
behind the boat, so that he knows that the lures are at the correct
depth. This ends up being near the bottom, as the kings generally run up
the deepest part of the river just off the bottom.
Gillham’s rod of choice for this application is the
Berkley IM 7 Buzz Ramsey signature series, which he matches with an
Ambassedeur 6500 C level-wind reel and Berkley line. In both his
saltwater and freshwater applications, Ron uses top-of-the-line gear .
Fishing is slow and by lunch, we have landed a 15-pound hen. We decide
to call it in early day, pick-up our vacuum-packed, flashfrozen halibut
from Deep Creek Processing and head back to Anchorage.
These five experiences gave my friends an authentic
look at the cross section of fishing that can be done during a long
summer day in Alaska. There are many other options available—from
different saltwater ports, to drifting the upper Kenai or biking into
the upper Russian —so the ones that we experienced were a combination of
personal preference, familiarity, and timing.
Since a huge range of options exist, it would be
impossible to be comprehensive in this article. Here are some of the
more popular to consider:
A FLY-OUT ACROSS COOK INLET Waterways on the western
shores of Cook Inlet like the Chuitna River, Silver Salmon Creek,
Wolverine Creek, Kustatan River, and Big River Lakes offer more remote
and less crowded opportunities for salmon than their road system
counterpar ts. Several outfitters, including Alaska Air Taxi and Alaska
West Air, provide transport to these systems. Alaska West Air also
provides daylong fly-outs to popular southwest Alaska locales like the
Nushagak River.
CANOE TRIP ON NANCY LAKE OR SWAN LAKE/SWANSON RIVER
SYSTEMS There are a multitude of very productive lakes that can be
accessed all over southcentral Alaska. The Nancy Lake and Swan
Lake/Swanson River systems are a series of lakes connected by trails.
The systems allow for an angler to get into secluded water and
experience a number of lakes. Multi-day trips are usually the norm, but
an angler could visit quite a few lakes in a system in a day. I’ve
stayed at the Alaska State Parks cabin in the Nancy Lake system with two
friends on the way to completing the system in two days.
WADE ANGLING ON THE KENAI, KASILOF, DEEPCREEK, OR
ANCHOR I mention these rivers as they are accessi - ble, popular, and
productive. Expect combat fishing, but the crowds of people are usually
tied into the crowds of fish. A similar experience can be had in the
Mat- Su Valley on the Willow, Montana, Sheep, and Little Susitna, if you
would rather be on the north side of Anchorage. The Kenai Peninsula
rivers are especially popular for waders targeting sockeye, while the
northern rivers are better suited to wading for kings. I spent several
days fishing for sockeye on the Kenai, and while it was very crowded,
the sockeye run was incredibly strong and we caught fish in good numbers
each day.
FISHING OFF THE BEACH IN SEWARD OR AT THE HOMER
LAGOON Another popular spot for anglers to catch salmon is from the
beach in Seward or in Homer at the lagoon. Stocked fish—silvers in
Seward, kings and silvers in Homer—return to these spots on a yearly
basis. It provides another road accessible means of harv esting fish.
SALMON AND HALIBUT FISHING FROM OTHER SOUTHCENTRAL
SALTWATER PORTS Other popular saltwater ports include Homer and Seward,
and like Deep Creek, you can launch from the beach at Anchor Point. In
addition to halibut and salmon, certain skippers will also target
lingcod and rockfish. There are plenty of charters available from all
three ports.
SUSITNA DRAINAGE FLY-OUTS TO DESTINATIONS LIKE LAKE
CREEK AND ALEXANDER CREEK I have fished both destinations for kings and
have done well. Both are short flights from Anchorage with many of the
local providers like Rust’s Flying Service and Alaska Air Taxi making
regular routes. Check with outfitters at both destinations for a
complete picture of the fishing opportunities.
This discussion is certainly not a complete analysis
of all the trips available in southcentral Alaska, but it should serve
to pique an interest in trips not yet consider ed and a reminder for
familiar options that have been overlooked. There is something for
everyone here, be it the occasional visitor or the seasoned Alaska
traveler.
-Marcus Weiner is a publisher of Fish Alaska
magazine.
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