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We’re trying something new this year, devoting one of our four
consecutive travel issues to a single river system—the Nushagak.
Certainly not every river in Alaska could stand up to this sort of
scrutiny. A good many are much smaller, of course, and proportionately
more fragile; quite a few are also exemplary only for a short period of
the year or for but one or two species of gamefish. Not the Nushagak.
What makes the Nushagak River one of the world’s great angling
destinations is not necessarily its size, though it is big by any
definition—one of the United States’ ten largest rivers by volume—but
its nearly unrivaled fecundity. The Nushagak produces fish—Chinook,
chum, sockeye, pink, or coho salmon, resident trout, sea-run Dolly
Varden, grayling, or pike, it almost doesn’t matter. Whatever the
quarry, they can be found in abundance somewhere in the system. Just
having the fish isn’t enough, though. In the case of king salmon, for
example, the Yukon or Kuskokwim rivers to the north can receive more
numerous returns some years, but neither mainstem river is as fishable.
The Nushagak, on the other hand, is conducive to sport fishing in nearly
every foot of its 275 or so miles.
That brings up another extraordinary feature of the Nushagak system—the
diversity of river characteristics one can encounter in the drainage, as
well as the variety of terrain the waters pass through. As ADF&G
biologist Jason Dye notes in a feature appearing later in this issue,
the Nushagak will accommodate virtually any type of user. Anglers headed
for the drainage can fly in to a headwater tributary and enjoy some of
Alaska’s wildest and most scenic float trips. Some of these floats are
highly technical, challenges even for advanced river-runners. Others are
agreeable enough that boaters with intermediate skills will have no
problem negotiating the trip. Over thirty camps on the lower river
provide another option, as travelers can spend a week at a fully-guided
retreat, chasing Chinook in jet boats during the day, wading the banks
in the evening, and finding dinner and a hot shower waiting when it’s
finally time to put the rods down. A few of these operations have also
established spike camps along the upper Nushagak River or in the
Mulchatna system, which patrons can utilize to access a host of
different species. In the fall, the region’s plentiful hunting
opportunities add an aspect to the standard Nushagak adventure. In fact,
during my September 2004 trip to the upper river, where Mike Addiego’s
Bristol Bay Adventures offers combination trips from a remote camp,
every other person I saw was concentrating completely on the caribou and
not at all on the fish. And, not to be forgotten, anglers with the
requisite permits from the local Native corporation (if along the lower
river, where most of the adjacent land is Native owned), can charter
flights from Dillingham and be dropped off at a single location along
the river, there to fish or hunt to their heart’s content.
We’ve tried to bring a taste of all this and more in the issue that
follows. An article by Les Gara of Anchorage focuses on the float-trip
experience, and though his journey takes place on the Chilikadrotna
River, a National Wild and Scenic tributary of the Mulchatna, it can be
viewed as fairly representative of the system’s headwaters as a whole,
give or take a fish here, a migrating herd of caribou there. Fish Alaska
publisher Marcus Weiner dissects the coho fishing found on the lower
Nushagak during August, after most of the river’s camps have long been
pulled out, and J.D. Richey explores all that Nushagak fishing that
doesn’t begin with the words king salmon.
However, the kings are undeniably the most significant draw when it
comes to the Nushagak. Consequently, we’ve devoted a pair of features to
the subject. E. Donnall Thomas, Jr., who has spent more years chasing
salmon with a fly rod than he likes to admit, introduces us to
fly-fishing for the species in the lower Nushagak, while Terry Sheely
relates his experiences from this past Fourth of July, when he and a
group of anglers boon-dogged their way to some truly explosive fishing.
In the end, we hope to have provided a broad view of Bristol Bay’s most
significant clearwater river system, a view that will not only help you
plan a Nushagak trip of your own, but a view worthy of such a place.
—Troy Letherman, Editor
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