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“Oh, would you look at this,” the man snapped. “I guess there’s no place
for us residents to fish.” He turned to his companion and snorted,
forgoing subtlety to let his displeasure really shine. “Wouldn’t it be
nice if us residents could do a little fishing, too?”
Needless to say, there was some added emphasis ladled onto the word
residents.
Before he’d decided to roll out the welcome mat, the man had elbowed his
way into the sockeye queue formed up near the confluence of the Russian
and Kenai rivers, which is almost always there, incidentally, day or
night, first or second run. He was practically begging for a
confrontation, but luckily, a magnanimous pair of anglers squeezed a
little closer together and cleared about five feet of angling space for
the new arrivals.
Having heard plenty of similar niceties exchanged before—on the Kenai,
on Willow and Montana creeks and just about anywhere else a road and
sockeye or king salmon happen to connect—I continued looking for chances
at the photography I’d come to get. However, I did keep an amused eye
turned towards the situation, and in the next half hour or so, as more
and more sockeye came to more and more nets that didn’t happen to belong
to our miffed resident, I watched his ire launch like the space shuttle.
Though I never asked anyone for any identification, I think it’s safe to
assume at least some of the folks fishing there that day were
honest-to-goodness Alaskans.
Not that it mattered. He was out for fish and it was the other
anglers—not the tight-lipped salmon, not the river’s swift-flowing
current—that were impeding his quest for a cooler full of fillets.
Should it have mattered? No way; not if you ask me, anyway.
Alaska is a land of truly astounding splendor, of rugged, white-domed
peaks yet to be scaled, of majestic old-growth forests and slender
coastal streams that have hardly ever seen a man’s footprint, of
high-mountain lakes still without a name. I can’t think of anywhere on
the planet that wouldn’t waste away to nothing in the shadow of its
natural magnitude, its diversity of life, or the sentence-stopping
beauty of its terrain. Here, anglers are treated to crystal-clear
streams that course through tundra flats of awe-inspiring vastness.
Mammoth rivers of aqua green drain ice fields the size of Connecticut.
And nearly all the waters of the state teem with fish—five species of
Pacific salmon, rainbow and cutthroat trout, Arctic char, Dolly Varden,
grayling, and pike, lakers and sheefish. On the banks, grizzly and black
bears, Sitka blacktail deer, wolves, caribou, and moose roam across
their ancient feeding grounds.
It’s a treat to behold, this state, a treat to encounter, and it should
be a treat to share.
Last summer, while awaiting a flight back to Anchorage from King Salmon,
I chatted with a Norwegian hiker returning from a weeklong trek through
Katmai National Park and Preserve. Though our discussion covered a
variety of topics, the one thing I distinctly recall is the bubbling
sense of wonder and respect she held for our state. Admiration
practically dripped from her every word, and eventually it was even
enough to drown out the contempt I’d heard dished out by a sockeye
angler just a few weeks before.
I must admit to the pride I felt as she went on about her adventure, but
at the same time, I also know a little bit about where some of the
state’s more disgruntled anglers are coming from. I enjoy seclusion when
I fish, too. In fact, it’s often that which I seek, not huge, slab-sided
trout or unseemly numbers of sockeye. And in the Last Frontier, it’s not
hard to find. Hence, I’m actually perplexed when I hear complaints about
Alaska’s waters being overrun by anglers—tourist and resident alike. All
told, the state can boast of more undiscovered or at least unpublicized
gems than just about anywhere else. It doesn’t always take a big pile of
money to access that kind of solitude, either. Some of the state’s sport
fish species are hardly targeted, leaving the small creeks or alpine
lakes that host them nearly emptied of anglers all summer long. The
stillwater fishing, especially, remains untapped.
And yet, emblematic of Alaska’s unique nature, even a heavily visited
river like the upper Kenai can retain much of its wilderness quality,
despite any crowds that might descend on a given day. Thinking about
that nearly peerless river now, I remember a very different experience I
had later the same year.
This time I was standing near the boat ramp at Sportsman’s Landing after
having completed a daylong float. Up walked Curt Trout, the owner of
Alaska Troutfitters and an upper Kenai regular for over two decades. He
didn’t lord his tenure over me, though. Instead he pulled out his box of
beads and passed out a few with the newest paint jobs.
Curious as to the reason for this spontaneous charity, I asked him why
he’d want to help another angler, one who happened to be fishing with a
competing guide service and who would inevitably drift those beads in
front of the same fish he was trying to catch. With all the pressure
Kenai rainbows can see, I knew having the hot bead could turn an average
day into one of those once-in-a-lifetime angling occasions that have
made the river famous.
“I’ve seen the number of anglers steadily increase over the years,” Curt
answered, “but rather than get upset, I’m happy to share the river with
others.” Like the sockeye angler from earlier in the season, I could see
the time Curt had spent on the Kenai, the experiences he’d encountered
on the magnificent river, had left him feeling possessive about the
turquoise-to-emerald waters. But like any proud parent, Curt wanted to
show off the object of his affection; he wanted everyone to understand,
if not feel, some of the love he felt for the Kenai. “In fact,” he
concluded, “I wish everyone could experience the feeling I get when I
float down the river and take the time to just look around.”
As we talked, raft after raft reaching the takeout point, the bright
summer sun giving way to the golden light of an endless evening, I
realized he was exactly right. We should take pleasure in the fact that
so many people come from so far away just to experience our state.
Obviously, we should understand their interest. And if living here
affords us an advantage, it’s not dibs on the best sockeye holes or the
right to shove a Californian off our favorite gravel bar, but the fact
that we get to see Alaska every day.
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