“On my planet, we have a sun” quips Bill O’Halloran of North Country River Charters. He and John Grimsley, retired NFL linebacker and owner of World Class Expeditions, team up to host a pike camp on the Yukon River each summer. Bill is the master of one-liners and this particular statement reflects the smoky haze that covers all and nearly blots out the sun. Alaska is in the midst of one of the worst-ever wildfire seasons and the fires that rage across the Interior cover everything in smoke for hundreds of miles in all directions. We hunt pike in these ethereal surrounds and are amazed and astounded at the size and voracity of the Yukon water wolf. With fish eclipsing the 20-pound mark pouncing on spoons, topwater plugs, and flies, we get a great sense of trophy pike fishing with Bill and John.

As we circle Togiak River Fishing Adventures from above, it is obvious that this is far more than a basic tent camp. From the indoor plumbing to the high quality Weatherport two-man sleeping tents and the gigantic dining and recreation tents, this camp is closer to being at home than any other tent camp I have seen. When the fishing begins, it is clear that this will be one of those trips to remember. From small stream fishing for rainbow trout and Dolly Varden to fishing in the mainstem Togiak for feisty kings, dogged chum salmon, and chrome sockeye, we catch fish in every situation. We top off the week by hiking a small river and fishing our way out—to the tune of several dozen native rainbows. Hats off to Brad Estelle for running a first-class operation.

The look on Dave’s face as he fights a 40-pound halibut is priceless. It is a combination of excitement and shock—shock at the strength with which the halibut tugs back and excitement in catching his first Alaska saltwater fish. Dave is used to fluke and flounder in the saltwater that surrounds Long Island, New York, but this fish is no fluke or flounder. Longtime friends Dave Calleja and John Warren have been staying with me for several days as we make our weeklong tour of day trips around southcentral Alaska. We have already float-tubed a local lake for rainbows, floated a river for kings, and flew out to a lake for pike. Now we catch bottomfish in Cook Inlet with Ron Gillham of Golden Eagle Charters and tomorrow we will fish with Ron on the Kenai River for kings. It is an amazing week spent with good friends catching lots of fish and enjoying the sights and sounds of Alaska through the eyes of newcomers.

Troy has been casting persistently all day to steelhead that have seemingly disappeared in the high-water conditions. I have long since given up and enjoy some action with the local Dolly population. The abundant stocks of Dolly Varden and cutthroat trout on Prince of Wales Island make it possible to catch fish when the water conditions preclude you from a reasonable chance at steelhead. I catch some motion out of the corner of my eye and hear Troy’s exclamation as his fly is hit in the swing. It is raining, cold, and windy—typical spring conditions, but we are loving every opportunity to wet a line on the island. Troy puts another cast in the same spot and is rewarded with a solid hookup as the buck steelhead heads for the deepest part of the channel and settles in. It is immediately clear that this is a steelhead, and not the cutts or Dollies we have played the last several days. Our guide Kenji, of Alaska’s Boardwalk Lodge in Thorne Bay, expertly aids Troy in landing the fish. A buck of about 10 pounds, it is just rewards for Troy’s efforts.

Thankfully, the summer isn’t quite over.

The remaining season holds promise for Nushagak silvers, healthy fall rainbows in Bristol Bay and Cook Inlet watersheds, and a trip down the Alaska Peninsula for monster coho. Visions of fall steelhead on Kodiak haunt me at night as I dream of metalheads on the Karluk River. Wherever you are—be it enjoying Alaska through the pages of this magazine or breathing it in firsthand from anywhere across this magnificent state, we hope that you are happy, healthy and most of all, catching fish.

–Marcus Weiner and Melissa Norris
Publishers