Originally published October 2005

The early season, before the salmon begin to drop their eggs, is the time to try dry flies in Alaska.

A Season of Trout

Story and Photos by Troy Letherman

The early season, before the salmon begin to drop their eggs, is the time to try dry flies in Alaska. However, a little later in the year, usually throughout July, skating a deer-hair mouse can pay exciting dividends.

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As anglers have long known, Alaska ranks as one of the world’s great rainbow trout destinations. There are places to go for big fish—really big fish, and there are places to go for lots of fish. Sometimes, it’s the same place. There are large, heavy-volume rivers and gently winding, mild mannered creeks. From the celebrated stomping grounds of 30-inch trophies—the Kenai, Naknek, and Iliamna watersheds—to lesser known, though not necessarily less prolific ribbons of blue crisscrossing the state in areas both remote and right-next-door, the rivers that are home to Alaska’s wild Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus are as diverse as the trout populations they hold.

Although it’s easily the most recognizable trout in the world, the rainbow actually varies considerably in both physical appearance and general life history across its range. Much of this diversity can be attributed to the regional—and hence, dietary and climactic—differences between populations.

Most of the coastal rainbow trout, which exist from California north to Alaska and in the streams of Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula, are profusely marked with small, irregularly shaped black spots both above and below the lateral line. Trout that display this general pattern can be found all across Alaska, from some of the lake systems of Southeast to Kuskokwim Bay. Most will have backs that are colored anywhere from a dark, greenish brown to a steely blue. But some of Alaska’s rainbows, hailing from a handful of the state’s colossal lakes—Naknek, Kenai, Iliamna—will have backs that are more lightly hued, usually closer to the emerald green of the steelhead. These resident rainbows will also display the bright silvery body color of the sea-going steelhead throughout much of the year, their small spots only discernible after close inspection.

Spring, summer, or fall—access is always a key element in finding Alaska’s best trout fishing.

Spring, summer, or fall—access is always a key element in finding Alaska’s best trout fishing.

There are also several stocks of rainbow trout in the state that take body coloration to the other end of the spectrum. Most recognizable of these are the leopard rainbows of Bristol Bay, brilliantly hued, heavily speckled fish with large, bold black spots and sides of copper to gold. Even the trademark band of red can differ between trout populations in Alaska. In the Bristol Bay rainbows, and several other stocks in the state, the block of deep red can nearly cover the entire width of their sides. In the fish of the largest lake systems, a light pinkish stripe will only invade the overall silver coloring of the fish as the spawning season progresses. Still others will look exactly as most expect a rainbow to look, with copper sides, small black spots, and a perfectly pink stripe.

Where Alaska’s rainbows don’t differ from one another is in their sleek, streamlined shape, with barely forked caudal fins that are broad at the base. Most populations of Alaska rainbows also share one other trait—a propensity for attaining very large, world-class sizes. This, like the differences in appearance that make some populations of fish so unique, is primarily a product of the distinctive lives many Alaska trout lead.

As might be expected, environments conducive to hosting large rainbows contain both rich and stable food sources. Depending on availability, larger rainbows will mostly eschew insect and other invertebrate morsels to feed on sticklebacks, sculpins, leeches, freshwater shrimp, snails, and even small rodents such as voles, mice, and shrews—and in Alaska especially, eggs, alevins, fry, and out-migrating salmon smolt.

This extreme reliance on the life cycle of the Pacific salmon as a food source makes fishing Alaska’s rainbows a time-sensitive affair.

In the spring, after the spawning closures, rainbow fishing techniques for Alaska will be as closely allied with the tactics used in the Lower 48 as they’re going to get. The trout will be found feeding on insects, crustaceans, and forage species like sculpins. Water conditions can be tricky at this time, depending on the amount of runoff, and anglers are often forced to play a waiting game until the waters clear. Once they do, however, the fishing is usually intense, as the post-spawn trout try to quickly make up the bulk they lost during the long winter and subsequent reproduction period.

Besides the standard dry fly-nymph-streamer selections, salmon flesh patterns can also be very effective in the early spring, when higher flows scour the banks and flush the remnants of autumn’s decay downstream. The best colors will be white or washed-out pinks. Probably the most anticipated spate of spring fishing, however, occurs in the state’s large lake and river systems, such as the Iliamna, Naknek, Wood-Tikchik, and Alagnak drainages, when rising water temperatures trigger the smolt out-migration, and in the best cases, a spate of frenetic topwater fly-fishing action.

An angler displays a healthy fall rainbow that chased a Scott Sanchez Double Bunny.

An angler displays a healthy fall rainbow that chased a Scott Sanchez Double Bunny.

As spring transitions to summer, the character of Alaska’s trout fishing also undergoes a change. Both are marked by the arrival of the first waves of salmon to the state’s waterways. In a number of watersheds, the rainbows will have moved. Some entire streams will nearly empty of fish, while others that may provide little or no spring fishing will receive a large influx of trout, which are probably close on the heels of the king or sockeye salmon.

Seasonally there is a transition point when the trout really start to feed on eggs. At first when the salmon are beginning to pair up, the competition on the spawning beds makes egg fishing difficult, and fly fishers can still do well with a variety of patterns. Anglers with a mind to will still be able to locate some dry-fly fishing in the state, namely in rivers like the Copper of the Iliamna system or in tributaries that hold rainbows seeking refuge from aggressive salmon. Summer in Alaska also presents the peak of the mousing season, especially in the clear runoff streams of Southwest. However, as the eggs start to drop and the intense rivalry subsides, no other fly pattern will do as well. In fact, during the peak of the egg drop, the feeding is typically so intense that anglers can present an egg-imitation fly anywhere within the general area of spawning salmon and have reasonable success. It is not until the late transition from egg to flesh, when there is an abundance of eggs in the water, that the fishing becomes challenging again. Accurate imitations and flawless presentations will then regain their importance.

As autumn matures, days get shorter and termination dust settles atop most Alaska mountains. Another change occurs as well, this one beneath the surface of the state’s many productive trout streams. On the banks and in the water of these once busy rivers the decaying remnants of thousands of salmon carcasses breathes new life into the food chain. Flesh from these rotting carcasses will provide high calorie nutrition for insects, birds, and plant life. Trout will start to feed heavily on decaying flesh and washed-out eggs as they float by. At this time of fall, the rainbows are particularly vulnerable to a well-presented flesh fly. Normal fishing will dictate that the early fly colors be oranges and reds, which resemble newer flesh. Pinks, tans, and whites should be used later in the season, as washed-out or bleached flesh is quite common when the tissue becomes thoroughly oxidized. These latter colors are normally fished from late September until freeze-up.

Many familiar with Alaska’s angling landscape may have heard the old saying, “As the reds go, so go the rainbows.” While this adage holds a certain veracity, there is much more to consider in searching out Alaska’s most likely lairs for trophy rainbows. Alaska is a vast state, with a diverse range of environmental circumstances that result in a variety of river, stream, and lake ecosystems, and in turn, some distinct differences amongst the state’s resident trout. After all, from the leopard rainbows of Bristol Bay and the silver-sided behemoths prowling mammoth lake systems like the Naknek and Iliamna to the resurrected stocks of the Talachulitna and the fabled ’bows of the Upper Kenai, the one sure similarity may be the presence of trophy potential. That and the fact the fishing will be different from one week to the next.

Troy Letherman is the editor of Fish Alaska magazine; he can be reached at tletherman@ fishalaskamagazine.com.

 
 
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