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“Go West, young man, and grow up with the country.”
So wrote Horace Greeley, founder and editor of the New York Tribune, one
hundred and fifty-five long years ago. Somehow, I doubt even he could
have imagined the extent to which Americans would do just that, and for
what duration.
Manifest Destiny is now a matter for scholars and
schoolchildren, and maybe an especially slow day at the coffee shop. But
still, as anyone standing on the Sitka docks in July can attest to, west
is a preferred direction of travel.
The long journey—and the accompanying notion of
adventure—provoke excitement and wonder, occasion promises that are
impossible to keep, and generally awaken the most romantic chambers of
our imaginations. My guess is it’s been this way since at least the
first time a Hellenic bard sang of Odysseus. Of course, the itch to
travel could simply be a genetic inheritance, as inflexible as the color
of one’s eyes; then again, perhaps it’s only added later, picked up
along the way like an after-factory carburetor or a set of colored
contacts. It is, however, embedded within the collective Western
consciousness. We can dispute the source, I think, but not the effect.
After all, no one I know ever sat at a little wooden desk and daydreamed
of a life as a patent clerk. Lewis and Clark, on the other hand…well,
let’s just say they were bigger than the Theory of Relativity.
Today I live and write just about as far west as a
person can go while remaining on the continent, a place where a child’s
dream of exploration still lives. Among the innumerable folds of the
Brooks Range, deep within the mist and the moss and the old growth of
the Southeast coastline, adrift on the oceans of tundra that flow
between, there is much left to be discovered. Especially if we allow for
the concept of discovery as an utterly personal matter.
Naturally, living in such a place, I see lots of
visitors.
As a destination, Alaska has always been of supreme
interest, and not only for tourists. Furs, fish, or timber, gold or oil:
You name it, this state has it, probably in abundance. What it also has
is a lot of room to roam, so much that it’s doubtful any one person
could ever really come to know it all, which is probably part of what
keeps so many coming back so often. The scenery helps. And did I mention
the fish?
Certainly, Alaska is one of the world’s premier
angling destinations. That much we all know. But taken alone, even this
fishing cannot explain the vast allure of the state or those few
remaining places that rival it. There is something else to Alaska, a
mystique perhaps, a touch of the exotic, a dose of the unknown. While
it’s true that more than the voyages of the great
explorers—circumnavigations of the globe, treks to the summits of
mountains I’ve never seen, Ponce de León hacking his way through the
Florida backcountry—I have been intrigued by tales that involve fish,
the settings for those stories are of at least equal importance as the
quarry.
Many years ago, Zane Grey began for me a fascination
with the Rogue, which to anyone else might seem silly, given the
steelhead fishing available right here in my own backyard. Hemingway
used one of his own grape-giddy adventures as source material for a
passage about trout fishing the Rio Irati, slipping it into The Sun Also
Rises. Since the day I first picked up the book, I’ve yearned to visit
Spain. Likewise, I read Joe Brooks’ Boca Fever and I want to go to
Argentina. And really, I don’t give a damn if I hook so much as a single
fish.
Similarly, there are hundreds of places in Alaska
that I’ve yet to see, rivers and creeks I would love to wade, and while
fish might be the excuse that eventually takes me there, I know there’s
a lot more at stake than drag-free drifts and a bent rod. In the months
to come, when I find myself perplexed by capricious rainbows or shutout
by stubborn kings, I only hope I take the time to remember that.
—Troy Letherman, editor
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