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Autumn typically comes to the Great Land in something
of a rush. Before we ever get comfortable with those seventy-degree days
of June and July it’s windy and rainy and gray every day. Of course, we
still get plenty of nice, bluebird days, though they’ll now start with a
bit of a chill—and eventually, frost.
One morning we’re fishing with friends for sockeye on
the Kenai and by that night it seems the coho are coming and the reds
are either dying or dead. What was green and blooming yesterday is
yellow and gold today and we quickly find ourselves staring down the
barrel at another long Alaska winter.
It hardly differs from year to year, and in some ways
this kind of reliability in change can shield us from the absolutes of
our seasonal transformation. Trout anglers should be among the most
aware, however. Those that are enjoying any kind of fall success anyway,
for all they have to do to triangulate their position on the calendar is
take a quick look into the fly boxes that were hauled streamside.
At this time of year, the traditional nymphs and
streamers are put away. Dry flies are out of the question. What you have
now is built of variation on but a pair of themes: eggs and flesh. Yes,
it’s often ugly fishing, but it’s also singularly effective—and any
deterioration of the aesthetic is more than made up for by the trout we
catch, fish gorgeous in their girth, chrome-sided, Alaska-sized beauties
that are worth every minute of cold, every wet inch of skin, every
split-shot crimped onto the end of your leader. Gone may be the
early-season aerials and extended acrobatics of a Russian circus
performer, but in return we get blistering deep-water runs, dogged
determination, and trout with the power reserves of a Los Angeles-class
submarine. Summer should be so lucky.
Recently, I find myself much more aware of the kind
of Maginot Line that exists as a demarcation between summer and fall
angling in the Last Frontier. It’s not necessarily that I’ve become any
more trenchant in my observations, but rather because like the Wehrmacht
in World War II, I’ve simply gone around the line altogether.
For the second consecutive Labor Day weekend, I’ll be
out of the state, visiting Ennis, Montana, for the Madison River
Foundation’s annual fly-fishing festival, the directors of which having
again been fooled into inviting me to speak about Alaska. It’s a good
gig—I get to return to my former home state, attend presentations by
truly interesting speakers like Ted Leeson and Seth Norman, and wade
through lots of blue-ribbon trout water. In return all I have to do is
talk about the fishing in a state that sells itself.
The abrupt nature of this transition—from Alaska to
Montana and then back again—helps me to clearly see the result of the
changes I missed while away.
One August day I’ll rig a 250-grain sinking line and
swing an Articulated Leech through deep pools on the eastside
tributaries of the Susitna River and the next I’ll be trying to thread
7X through a size 22 dry and come to some kind of grips with a
mid-morning Trico hatch. I’ll swap the standard three coats of bug dope
for equivalent applications of sunscreen. And while there will be summer
days in Alaska where a twenty-four-inch trout doesn’t prompt so much as
a glance towards the camera, I’ll soon be reminded that any fish
approaching twenty in Montana warrants the kind of celebration that can
end in either jail time or Wyoming, a pair of equally dire results.
Then, after just enough time to feel properly
reacquainted with the Big Sky State, I’ll find myself back in Alaska,
looking at the seven- and eight-weights leaning against the wall of my
office, wondering about the rainbows hanging below Skilak or whether the
big brutes of the Naknek and Kvichak have been lured from their
respective lakes yet. If I’m lucky, and my supply of domestic harmony
hasn’t been completely expended, I’ll soon find myself in a jetboat
realizing firsthand the reason Alaska is famous for trout.
It’ll be a big change, from the Montana of a day
before and from the Alaska of just a few weeks ago, and the skies will
probably be overcast and my toes cold. But this is an occasion when
change is a good thing.
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