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Valdez outfitter and guide Otto Kulm was doing a
Nantucket sleigh ride, silver-salmon style. There wasn't a wake from
the bow of his 16-foot Wilderness System kayak, but he was definitely
being towed down Irish Cove by a hefty fish that was attached to the
business end of his eight-weight fly rod.
Rain dimpled the cove, which is located some
forty-five miles out of Valdez but only a few minutes run away from
Ravencroft Lodge, where I had spent the night after a day of salmon
shark fishing off Hinchenbrook Island. Silver salmon were jumping
along the shoreline as far as we could see. They were concentrated in
a channel on the east side of the cove, gathering to enter the feeder
streams in which they would spawn.
We had slid our kayaks from the stern of the MV
Bold Eagle, Otto's 34-foot Fibercraft. It was flat calm and the cove
was alive with silvers and pinks. The pinks had been in the cove for
sometime and were losing their silver luster, but the coho were
ocean-bright and aggressive. Armed with fly gear, Otto, Pat Welch, a
local fly-fishing expert, and myself, a visitor from the Lower 48 with
numerous fishing adventures in Alaska, were about to attempt a fairly
new and adventurous method of seeking salt and freshwater salmon.
We were using sit-on-top kayaks, stable enough to
stand and cast from but small and self-propelled, unlike the usual
fishing craft used by Alaska salmon fishermen. With these kayaks we
could silently paddle within casting range of pods of silvers, which
we did with ease in the calm waters of Irish Cove.
Otto told me that there were at least half a dozen
saltwater coves and bays that were alive with silvers in this part of
Prince William Sound that could be reached by kayaking after using a
mother boat to get close.
Today we would sample the saltwater options;
tomorrow, our silver salmon adventure would be on a river a few miles
from downtown Valdez.
Valdez is not the best-known destination for
salmon-seeking tourists from the Lower 48. It is a daylong road trip
from Anchorage via the Richardson Highway, or a 45-minute flight on
ERA, the commuter airline that services southcentral Alaska. Local
fishermen know what a prize they have in their nearby waters, but the
news hasn't been widely spread.
August in Valdez is a silver salmon bonanza. Adding
in the excitement of the annual Silver Salmon Derby with some serious
prizes gives even more reason to go, as I quickly found out when Otto
finally reached for the net. He hoisted a silver in the 8- to 10-pound
range and pulled it into the kayak, grinning like a little kid that
just found a candy store.
Beaching our kayaks so I could shoot some photos
from solid ground, we decided to fish the channel from the shore. An
aerial attack by no-see-ums found us scrambling for the bug spray
before we started casting again. Meanwhile Pat was patrolling the
shoreline in his craft, trolling a bright pink and purple fly of his
own design.
While Otto worked the shoreline with his fly rod, I
picked up the six and one-half-foot telescoping spinning rod I'd
packed and tied on a three-quarter-ounce leadhead jig with a barbless
hook that was dressed with blue and silver Flashabou to imitate a
small baitfish. A savage strike answered my first shoreline cast. One
jump and the barbless jig went flying one direction, the coho another.
Using a medium weight-spinning rod, I was probably
under-gunned for these fresh 10- to 12-pound wild fish, but it sure
was fun. My second cast was an immediate hookup with a nice coho over
10 pounds, which I beached after several minutes. A somewhat worn pink
salmon with a pronounced hump slammed the jig next, while Pat was
playing a strong hook-nosed silver buck from his kayak several yards
from Otto and me.
In perhaps the next dozen casts, I hooked six
silvers, landing only one on the light tackle and barbless hook
combination. The rest tossed the jig with aerial acrobatics and
sizzling runs. As we walked back to our kayaks, Otto pointed out the
handiwork of a local fisherman. A bald eagle had swooped from a tree
and snatched a large silver from the surface. The partially eaten fish
lay in the grass on the shoreline. If the eagle didn't come back to
finish it, it would likely be dinner for one of the local black bears
that called the dense forest home.
I'm sure we could have caught silvers until our
arms were too tired to play another fish, but since filling a freezer
was not our goal, we left the certainty of Irish Cove and went
exploring. Our destination was Hell's Hole, a bay halfway between
Valdez and Cordova. It has a reputation for providing coho hookups
about every other cast.
We would have to paddle from the open water through
a narrow slot to reach the fishing grounds. Unfortunately the weather
began to pick up and we decided it was too dicey to launch in the open
water and paddle through the breaking waves in the shallow entrance to
reach an area that Otto had not fished before. It appeared that the
water was too shallow for the 34-foot Bold Eagle to enter at this
stage of the tide. Getting in looked doable, but paddling out was the
question, particularly if the weather got worse. Deciding caution was
the best option; we left Hell's Hole for another day and headed back
to Valdez.
Looking for a sure thing, with jumping silvers on
display, we cruised into Shoup Bay, an Alaskan Marine State Park with
calm waters towered over by spectacular mountains, which give Valdez
the nickname of the Switzerland of Alaska.
Rain clouds obscured the scene, which on a sunny
day would be absolutely breathtaking. Even under a layer of clouds the
site was impressive. Pat Welch told us this was his favorite spot in
all of the Valdez area and he lived for the days when the sun came out
and he could run his Zodiac from town for a day's fishing or just
picnicking and enjoying the splendor of this special place. The fish
weren't showing so we headed farther back to Valdez, passing through a
flotilla of kicker boats, skiffs and cruisers fishing the outgoing
tide in Port Valdez. Tomorrow was to be another day.
Back at the marina, the city fish-cleaning station
was a bustle of activity with anglers hauling ice chests and
wheel-barrels full of bright silvers to be filleted by experts like
Pat, who can fillet a salmon in seconds- and will, for a dollar a
fish. Pat estimates that he fillets an average of 20,000 salmon a year
during the summer season.
Fog shrouded the marina in the early morning as I
walked from my motel to meet Otto by the fish-cleaning station. It
looked like the weather was going to get sunny, a welcome respite for
Valdez, which does tend to be on the wet side during the month of
August. Otto loaded the kayaks on a trailer behind his SUV. Today was
going to be a river fly-fishing adventure.
Our destination was the Robe River, practically on
the edge of downtown Valdez. Flowing from Robe Lake, this small river,
more like a creek in size, flows about six miles through tangled alder
and spruce in a wilderness setting while only a few hundred yards from
the main highway at some places. It is a fly-fishing-only stream with
a one-salmon limit and is rarely fished even by locals. Access is
difficult, though, unless you have the ultimate paddling craft, a
stable kayak that will slip through the tight spots of this meandering
waterway.
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Chrome-bright silvers are the reward for kayak fishing in Prince William Sound. |
Otto's friend, James Erickson, who fills in as a
skipper and works at the local tackle shop, joined us for our day's
paddle in search of silver salmon. At well over six feet tall, James
is a good man to have along when maneuvering through tight spots in
the fast current. My kayaking skills are moderate. Heavy rains had
raised the river over a foot, putting the water over the grassy
shoreline and making the meandering stream a bit more difficult than
normal. While one might be tempted to try this river on his or her
own, I'd advise against it and leave this adventure to being led by an
experienced guide, which in this case is Otto, who is the only
outfitter in Valdez offering this kind of guided trip.
Robe Lake is surrounded by mountains, which on this
sunny day reflected in the calm lake. Pink salmon were spawning by the
boat ramp, some in only a few inches of water. The first few miles of
river are just a scenic and placid paddle, getting to the silvers
requires getting downstream to where salmon stack up in a series of
holes. My first surprise came when we approached a culvert and James,
with a whoop like a surfer taking a wave, shot through. I followed and
whooped myself.
Below the culvert we began seeing salmon, mostly
pinks that had been in the river for some time. Dolly Varden hung in
the current feeding on loose eggs from the spawning pinks. My blue and
pink fly was quickly grabbed by a humpy before it washed past the
Dolly that I was targeting. Working our way downstream we began seeing
silvers finning in the current. Rounding a bend, we came up on a hole
that was full of silvers, Otto, James and I all hooked up as we cast
to the edge of the brushy shoreline.
These fish were extremely aggressive, striking our
offerings as soon as they hit the water and began to sink. Flies for
salmon seem to have one thing in common, as Pat Welch had said the day
before; something with pink is what works. James and Otto used marabou
streamers while I used a pink and blue Flashabou fly that I tied at
home before the trip. As we worked out way downriver, we continued to
see silvers, pinks and Dolly Varden. Otto hung a large red hooknose
with a weighted fly in a deep run, which he released after a quick
photo.
Otto encourages catch and release on these wild
fish since the river is small and the run could be impacted from heavy
fishing pressure. Access is pretty much limited to kayaking, though,
which should help keep the fishing pressure low.
The Robe runs into the Lowe River, which is full of
glacial runoff and tricky to navigate. Life jackets are required for
this section of the trip due to the bigger water and fast current amid
many gravel bars. Otto also warns that brown bears fish both these
rivers and proper precautions need to be taken. We pulled out near the
mouth of the river on Port Valdez.
It was a day well spent and a great finish to a
two-day adventure that - through kayaking - created a new and unique
approach to silver fishing. If you want to try this new adventure, you
can contact Otto at Pacific Mountain Guides. He can customize your
kayaking trip for both salt and freshwater fly-fishing from these
stable open craft. For those that prefer tossing lures with spinning
or casting gear, it is definitely an option for the saltwater areas.
Using the Bold Eagle, Otto targets silver salmon, halibut, salmon
sharks, lingcod and rockfish in Prince William Sound and the Gulf of
Alaska.
With salmon, Chinook, pink, chum and sockeye are
also available, but the emphasis is on the spectacular silver salmon
fishing that Valdez and its surrounding waters offer. Otto can also
make arrangements for fishing with him and staying at Ravencroft
Lodge, a remote wilderness lodge on Prince Williams Sound's Port
Fidalgo Inlet. Ravencroft is accessible only by boat or floatplane.
The fishing for salmon, halibut, lingcod and rockfish is extremely
good, plus Irish Cove offers calm water in its estuary setting with
outstanding silver fishing and lots of pinks for light-tackle
catch-and-release fun. You can catch silvers right off the beach in
front of the lodge, too. In fact, Pete Young, who helps at the lodge,
caught a 20-pound silver off the beach using a trout rod a few days
before my visit. A pair of guest who just arrived as I was leaving
couldn't wait to go fishing, and they, too, promptly caught a nice
silver from the beach. It made me wish that I had taken time to cast
from shore instead of having a cup of coffee on the deck and enjoying
the scenery before Otto picked me up for the day's kayak fishing.
Rod and Laura Hodgin, who built this lodge on a
former copper mining site in the middle of the Alaska wilderness,
offer home-style meals, a large bunkhouse room for groups or
individual rooms with shared bathroom facilities. They also have
kayaks and open skiffs for guests with guided and unguided fishing.
Fishing is done right in front of or within a few minutes of the
lodge.
Valdez has salmon fishing year around, as there is
a winter fishery for feeder king salmon for those that brave the ice
and snow. However, it is the summer fishery for silvers that is its
real attraction. Expect the best fishing to be around derby time,
which runs from late July to early September. Halibut fishing is an
added attraction in Valdez and has its own derby. The winning fish in
2006 weighed in at 343.6 pounds.
Salmon shark fishing is becoming a big attraction
in Prince William Sound as well. These 300- to 500-pound relatives of
great white and mako sharks gather by the thousands to feed on
migrating pink salmon that number in the millions in Prince William
Sound in July and August.
While most Alaskans and road-traveling tourist use
the Richardson Highway to reach Valdez, it is a short flight from
Anchorage for visitors on a tighter traveling schedule. Valdez is
popular with RVers as well. It has 1,000 RV sites right near the
harbor and marina. Lodging and dining is within walking distance of
the marina. Popular restaurants are the Pipeline and the Alaska
Bistro. The Totem Restaurant is a popular breakfast stop for locals
and visitors. The Best Western Valdez Harbor Inn is right next to the
marina. The Alaska Bistro with its marina and mountain view is located
at the Valdez Harbor Inn.
Fishermen can get their catch filleted at the
fish-cleaning station at the marina for a dollar a fish. Vacuum
packing and freezing is available a few blocks away at Fish Central or
Easy Freeze. Non-resident licenses are available at the Prospector and
Hook, Line and Sinker, as well as many of the more than one dozen
charter operations in Valdez.
Doug Wilson is a contributing photographer for
Fish Alaska magazine; he has a feature and images on the Southeast
port of Wrangell coming up in February.
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