“Try running your float right down the inside edge of that riffle,” offered Kenji King, my fishing partner for the day. The water was easy to read, and I knew exactly where he wanted the jig to be.

The cast fell in the right spot, and flipping the bail, my bobber was soon floating upright, smack into the sweet spot. As soon as it hit where we thought a strike would come, sure enough, the bobber was tugged under. Frantically reeling up the slack, a hook-set wasn’t necessary, for the wild steelhead was already doing aerial acrobatics across the surface.For me, it was a special moment. It was my first day of fishing the famed Thorne River, which meanders to the eastern shores of Prince of Wales Island. Not only was it my first day, it was my first cast ever on this beautiful stream, and it was rewarded with a hard-fighting steelhead.

Working together, Kenji and I pulled the jig from the steelhead’s mouth, revived him and sent him on his way, back into the river to spawn. It was late May, and though the steelhead run was nearing the end, it didn’t seem like it now.

Kenji King is an avid angler whose passion, like many of us, is fishing in Alaska. So, when asked by his good friend, angling maniac and owner of the brand new Thorne Bay Lodge, if Kenji would be interested in working for him, Kenji jumped at the chance.

Over the course of a week, I’d explore many fine steelhead and cutthroat streams, and Kenji and I would hook our share of fish. For me, though I’ve been blessed to fish much of Alaska, this was all new.

The numerous streams making their way out of the rugged mountains on Prince of Wales reminded me of the many streams I fished while growing up in western Oregon. We’d end up fishing many rivers, streams and small creeks, but didn’t come close to discovering half of what I’d hoped to; there’s simply too much to do.

This is one of those places that, once there, you realize the magnitude of the land, and the mind-boggling number of streams there are to explore. Then reality sets in, and you deduce that it would take several years to see all the great fishing this place has to offer. Though we were short on time, Kenji and I did our best to take in all we could.

The Island

The country’s third largest island, behind Hawaii and Kodiak, Prince of Wales encompasses nearly 2,600 square miles. It has what is regarded as perhaps the world’s most numerous array of steelhead streams, with over 300 known streams, some of which aren’t even officially named.

An estimated 2,000 miles of road meanders throughout the island, much of it a result of large-scale logging operations that have drastically diminished in recent years. Even with this much road access, an angler could spend a lifetime exploring all the fishing to be had on Prince of Wales Island and likely not see it all. More than any other destination in southeast Alaska, this island boasts the most freshwater fishing opportunities.

Prince of Wales Island can be reached by daily plane and ferry service from Ketchikan. It’s common for anglers to put their vehicle on the ferry, allowing them to spend the summer delving in to the fishing opportunities at their own pace. While the logging has come to a halt, it’s opened pathways to innumerable fishing opportunities. Most of the roads are gravel, though paved sections do exist between Craig to Thorne Bay and down to Hollis.

It should be noted here that due to extensive logging on the island, runoff is high during rainstorms and streams can be “flashy,” that is rise rapidly. Rather than the rain being absorbed by trees and their root systems, much of it flows over the land, directly into streams. As a result, streams can become unfishable rather quickly. The good thing is, they do recover rapidly.

During periods of intense rainfall, some streams that are typically easy to wade may become inaccessible. Pay close attention to weather systems when fishing on this island, and practice patience, recognizing the fact you’re at the mercy of Mother Nature.

As logged units reseed themselves and grow back in coming years—and it happens quickly in this rain-rich habitat—look for streams to be less vulnerable to rapid rainfall. Also, as time goes on, look for more roads to be paved between existing villages, opening up even more access to sport fisheries.

One advantage fishermen will notice, especially if they were on the island a decade or more ago, is that with the logging boom all but being over, resident human populations are declining as people move out of the area. As a result, sport fishing tourism is becoming an even larger part of this island’s economy. This is where Brent Dickinson, owner of Thorne Bay Lodge, and his sidekick, Kenji King come in.

The Arrangements

Dickinson built a quaint collection of log cabins in the town of Thorne Bay. He chose this place for it’s location, and he made a good choice.

“Fishing the many streams in this area isn’t too tough, but many anglers who come here are looking for a place to stay,” shares Dickinson. “I’ve fished it enough to know what their needs are, and figured I’d be the one to supply that.”

Dickinson is a builder by trade, and it shows in his comfortable, fully-furnished cabins. My entire week was spent at Thorne Bay Lodge which, in addition to accommodations, included a 4x4 truck in the package. If you don’t ferry your own rig over, transportation is a major obstacle. Dickinson solved this dilemma by offering clients their own rig. From the lodge, anglers can explore all the fishing in the area they care to. Having this mobility, and a cozy cabin to return to, make this a unique operation.

At Thorne Bay Lodge, you do all your own cooking. Taking a cooler full of food into the lodge worked well for me. By the end of the week the food was gone, and replaced with halibut fillets.

What Thorne Bay Lodge offers is an opportunity to fish and explore, on your own. They simply provide you shelter and a vehicle. If you’d like a guide, that’s what King is there for. Both guided and non-guided trips are worth it, especially if fairly new to the angling world.

The Action

Not long after releasing that first steelhead in the Thorne River, another fish was hooked. From there, King and I hopped to another hole a bit farther upstream. While no steelhead were in the hole, there were plenty of nice, aggressive cutthroat. In fact, they were so tenacious, they actually hammered my Over The Edge steelhead jigs.

After getting our fill of cutts, King and I went to another stream, then another, and another. We ate lunch while traveling between streams, feeling time was already too tight to stop and actually relax. There was too much fishing to get done.

In two other streams, steelhead were hooked on the very first cast. It was evident the fish were aggressive, and had felt no pressure from fellow anglers. They couldn’t attack the jigs fast enough.

One day, we returned to the Thorne River, checking for steelhead. On one cast that drifted close to shore, my float went down and a little, bright fish spent more time out of the water than in. It was obvious the fish wasn’t a steelhead, but it’s dime-bright color caught me off-guard. Tailing the fish, I was surprised to find a feisty red salmon. It was the first sockeye I’d taken on a jig, and the earliest Kenji had seen one pulled from the Thorne.

We also spent some time wading small, unmarked creeks along the roadside. Here, we targeted steelhead and cutthroat. We caught both. “A couple weeks earlier, these streams were packed with Dolly Varden,” King pointed out. “Talk about some aggressive fish!”

King also went on to detail what these streams are like in the fall, when coho salmon enter by the tens-of-thousands. Pink salmon come in by the millions, with schools so thick, you can’t see the bottom. Hefty chum salmon are also plentiful. “The best part,” Kenji smiled, “these streams will be crammed full of fish, and you can go after them all day long without seeing another angler.”

Bonus Features

Thorne Bay Lodge also offers guided ocean-fishing excursions. During the right time, migrating king salmon can be caught, as well as numerous silver salmon. The real bonus is the halibut fishing. During my trip, I released every steelhead and trout, opting to keep some fine-eating halibut to take back to the family.

I also had all good intentions of taking some delectable Dungeness crab meat home, but that didn’t happen. While heading out to the ocean, we dropped crab pots in the bay, then collected them on the way back to the docks. The pots were packed with big, mature crabs, and getting enough males for a meal was not a problem. Unfortunately, the folks in camp helped me devour the tasty crab, and I had none left to take home.

If you’re a hunter, May and June are prime times to experience a cast-and-blast adventure. That’s what I did last spring, and things couldn’t have gone better. Not only did I catch fish, I took a dandy black bear, too. It doesn’t get much more “Alaska” than that!

Gearing Up

When undertaking a trip of this nature, you’re responsible for supplying your own fishing gear. The streams are small, and fishing them is simple. No large rods or extra special setups are needed. The Thorne River, the largest on the island, is shallow and easy to read.

Jig fishing is likely the most efficient approach, allowing you to effectively cover the most water. Bring an array of jig colors and designs, to give the fish something different to look at. Some of the streams are large enough, I would recommend a specialty float-fishing rod, something like a G. Loomis STR1165 which is rated for 8- to 15-pound test line and is 9’8” long. This will allow you to work the big rivers as well as the brush-lined smaller streams. Be sure to bring extra floats, barrel swivels and leader, and a floating mainline like Hydrofloat.

For drift and spinner fishing, a rod along the lines of the G. Loomis STR1163S, which is 9’8” long and rated for 8- to 12-pound test line, is a good choice. This is excellent for both drift fishing and tossing spinners, and has enough power to handle fish all the way up to small Chinook, in size.

Bring an assortment of spinners and spoons, for both steelhead and trout. Blue Fox Vibrax spinners are tough to beat, and smaller versions for trout and Dollies are a good idea. Drift anglers will want an assortment of small sinkers and driftbobbers. These setups will get you through fall coho and steelhead season, too.

Many of the streams in the region are rocky, so bring extra spools of mainline for needed changeouts. Fluorocarbon leader is a good choice, though most of the streams are tannic in color, and thus it’s not a necessity. Put all the gear in a backpack and you’re set; it’s that simple. If you forget any gear, there’s a well-supplied tackle shop in Thorne Bay that can fill any gaps.

Brent Dickinson’s Thorne Bay Lodge has created opportunities for anglers. With a cabin in place and a truck at your disposal, fishing this slice of southeast Alaska paradise is now easy. All you have to do is get there.

For more information on fishing out of Thorne Bay Lodge, give them a call at 866-434-8855. You can also learn more at www.thornebaylodge.com.

For a complete reference guide to fishing the many streams on Prince of Wales Island, as well as the rest of Alaska, check out Scott Haugen’s book, A Flyfisher’s Guide to Alaska, at www.scotthaugen.com.