There’s a lot a person can write about Kodiak Island, probably too much in fact, without the resulting prose coming off as some kind of overhyped tourism endorsement. The real problem, of course, is that it’s almost always true.
The second largest island in the United States (80th largest in the world), Kodiak, or “the Rock” as it’s colloquially known, presents some stunning contrasts. On display is everything from coastal wetlands to 4,000-foot peaks; the island is mountainous and heavily forested in the north and east, but fairly treeless on its southern coast. And then there’s all that water.
I’ve only fished in freshwater on the island—and barely scratched the surface at that—which seems unlikely considering that nowhere on Kodiak’s expanse can a person be more than 15 miles from saltwater (due to the fact that it’s an island, sure, but also because the many saltwater bays and fingers reach deep into the landscape here). While this marine environment is exceedingly productive, providing massive catches for both sport- and commercial-fishing operations, I prefer to let those with solid experience on these waters, like some of the authors featured later in this issue, do the talking. Instead, my focus here (as in more locations than I can comfortably admit) is on the area’s steelhead.
In all, sixteen river systems on Kodiak and Afognak islands support populations of steelhead, the largest occurring in the meandering Karluk River, which averages between 4,000 and 8,000 fish per year. In Alaska, only the Situk River has a higher annual return. The Ayakulik, Uganik, Dog Salmon, Saltery, and Litnik rivers also support populations, as does Pauls Creek, with each averaging between a few hundred and 1,500 returning steelhead each season. The steelhead in both the Karluk and Ayakulik rivers are fall fish, entering freshwater in mid-August and continuing throughout the winter months. There is rumored to be a small spring run in the Karluk River as well, but the peak of the runs on Kodiak normally occur in October, with fish averaging six to seven pounds and occasional trophies up to fifteen pounds being taken.
The Karluk, flowing just over twenty miles from its source at Karluk Lake to a terminus at Karluk Lagoon and Shelikof Strait, can be exceedingly skinny water. There are few places for steelhead to hold throughout the stream, with the exception of a handful of areas near the Portage where fish can be found in concentrated numbers. Otherwise the Karluk’s steelhead are moving, stopping to rest occasionally in the little holding water available. Anglers might locate a handful of steelhead in a stretch of river, only to find the next half-mile isn’t more than ten inches deep. Steelhead will blow through these areas, not stopping until they find acceptable cover.
Viable populations of steelhead are also known to inhabit the Afognak Archipelago and the streams that empty into Raspberry Strait. René Limeres, an outfitter and Fish Alaska contributing editor who fishes Afognak regularly, explains that fishing this area may take a little more planning than some other Alaska steelhead locales.
“Most of the Afognak rivers are short,” Limeres says. “And hitting them just right requires a little due diligence.”
That being said, some great fishing can be had when one does stumble on the right conditions. “Plan around big fall tides to bring the fish,” Limeres added.
Unfortunately, some of the fall tides occur during the night, which makes fishing them virtually impossible. Plus, since these short Afognak rivers often have very little holding water, most of the fish will travel to headwaters near or into the source lake, sometimes completing the entire journey in under a couple hours time.
This is actually quite common for many of them. Some, like the Litnik River and Saltery and Malina creeks are no more than about three miles long. Fishing any of this type of stream for steelhead, and finding success, is heavily dependant on the tides, when tidewater areas and whatever holding water is available in the streams themselves can provide phenomenal action. However, as Limeres notes, within a few hours of the tide having come in, all the fish may be gone.
“Finding fish, especially fast-moving steelhead, in streams that have limited holding water can be problematic,” Limeres continued. “But the overall ambiance of the experience and the vast solitude that can be found on Afognak keeps the mystique of the island alive.”
As you’ll also learn later in this issue, most travel on Kodiak is accomplished by boat or plane, and several charter businesses and local air carriers, like Andrew Airways, are based on the island. Major air carriers also service Kodiak on a daily basis.
Once on the island, a good number of lodges cater to late-season steelheaders, who will inevitably be sharing camp with deer and brown bear hunters. Air taxis and local outfitters are also available in the communities of Kodiak, Larsen Bay, and Old Harbor.
Obviously, there is a ton of fishing to be had on Kodiak, much of it world-class. But if you’re looking for a new, and slightly different way to tackle the island this fall, give the steelhead a try.
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