Planning a do-it-yourself Alaska king salmon trip carries with it many responsibilities. Once run timings are pinpointed, travel dates set, rivers mapped out and plane and accommodation arrangements made, the next task is figuring out what gear to bring.Whatever lingering hangovers we might have are long gone by the time we schlep our gear three miles across mucky tidal flats and set up camp by the mouth of the river. With all the great fishing to be had in Alaska without much more effort than climbing in and out of a car, boat or plane, something unique must be going on here to motivate a group of not-so-young anglers to such extremes.
The key to successful bank fishing for kings often boils down to being mobile, thereby being able to cover water in search of fish. It might also require fishing multiple streams, and knowing what gear to take can make all the difference. Following is a look at the complete list of gear I take to Alaska when bank fishing for king salmon. This list will allow you to fish virtually any river in the state that’s accessible, as well as face a wide-range of conditions.
Rods & Tackle
One thing about bank-fishing Alaska, you’ll likely find a wide variety of conditions. To meet these demands and optimize the number and selection of ways presentations can be made, it’s necessary to take at least two rods, one for an emergency backup if nothing else.
Personally, for the way I fish, the G. Loomis GL2 rod series works great, and I’ll have the three models with me. The SAR 1084C in a 9-foot, heavyweight rated for 10- to 30-pound-test line is ideal for casting lures, and can also be used for plunking, drift fishing and float fishing in small streams. My drift rod of choice is the HSR 1023C in an 8-foot 6-inch magnum heavyweight with a line rating of 12- to 25-pound-test. The rod is perfect for drift fishing, plunking and back-bouncing, and is stout enough to handle magnum size kings. I also love float fishing for kings, as it allows me to access water that may otherwise be impossible to fish with other methods, and for this I rely on the STR 1265S in a 10-foot 6-inch length, medium-heavyweight capable of handling 10- to 20-pound-test line. This is perfect for working both jigs and bait, and is a good backup for drift fishing.
Before getting into the terminal gear, let’s look at tackle accessories and lines. Have two files on hand, one on your person and an extra in the tackle box, and use them to keep hooks sticky-sharp. A pair of scissors, small needle-nose pliers, fillet knife and pocket knife can all be stowed in the tackle box.
On my float rod, I’ll spool a spinning reel with 50-pound Hydrofloat, P-Line’s newest specialty line and the only one I know of designed specifically for salmon and steelhead bobber fishing. I’ll also have an extra spool filled with this line, as backup. The other two rods are spooled with P-Line’s CXX Extra Strong, in 40-pound-test, moss green, and my leaders are the same. For my spinner rod, I’ll take an extra spool filled with 20-pound-test line, for casting lighter weight lures farther, and more accurately. An extra spool of 40-pound-test line also fits in my box. If fishing eggs, I’ll include a few pairs of rubber gloves, a dozen sealable baggies and a couple bottles of T-N-T Alaska Kenai Red cure. This way I can cure eggs from the first hen I catch, and use them the next day.
For hooks and leaders, I’ll take three of the new, large capacity Pip’s Leader Caddies; one loaded with 3/0, one with 5/0 and one with 7/0 hooks, all pre-tied and ready to go. I’ll also take a selection of 4/0 to 6/0 siwash hooks to attach to lures, as many Alaska streams have single-hook rule in effect.
Sinkers are an important item, but too many can add considerable weight. Nonetheless, I’ll take a range of sinkers, usually in the form of two packs of mid-size, reusable split shots, followed by two dozen slinky sinkers ranging from one to three ounces in weight, a half-dozen each of 1-, 1½- and 2-ounce teardrop sinkers, a few 3-ounce pyramid sinkers, a couple dozen ¼-inch pencil sinkers (about 5 inches long) and couple dozen 1-inch-long pieces of ¼-inch surgical tubing, to slip the pencil sinkers to on the mainline. I’ll also take a small, old spool of 10-pound-test to tie my sinker drop-lines with: I want older line that’s not as strong as my mainline, so it breaks off when hung up, rather than losing all my terminal gear. These weights will allow me to rig all the setups needed to bank fish for kings.
Swivels are a small item, but very important. I’ll carry a couple dozen each of size 4, 5 and 6 barrel swivels, size 2, 4 and 6 three-way swivels and size 2 and 3 snap swivels. The barrel swivels are ideal for float fishing, casting spinners (to eliminate line twist) and when working shallow waters where rubber tubing can be slid up the mainline and a small piece of pencil sinker affixed. The three-way swivels are perfect for drift fishing, plunking and back-bouncing, while the snaps are needed for attaching hardware.
Where bait is not allowed, color and action of the terminal gear are keys to attracting the attention of king salmon. For this, I’ll include a selection of Mack’s Lure Fat Yarn, with red, orange, pink and chartreuse being the preferred colors. Tied either above the eye of the hook, or in the egg loop, oftentimes colored yarn is all that’s needed to get fish to bite. Most of the time, however, I’ll also slip a driftbobber onto the leader, above the yarn. If tying the yarn above the eye of the hook, slip a few 3mm to 5mm beads on first, followed by the driftbobber. The beads allow spinning driftbobbers to move freely, without getting tangled in the yarn. While you’re at it, include a couple dozen 3mm beads, and a dozen bobber stops, both of which will be used on your float-fishing rod to set your depth and keep the float from sliding over the stopper.
Lil’ Corkies are tough to beat for Alaska kings, and I’ll often stack a pair on top of one another for added color and action. In all, I’ll take 40 to 50 Corkies in mixed colors of sizes 4 and 6. Bright pinks, oranges and chartreuse combinations are good bets, as are metallic with flashy paint jobs. I’ll also take along a couple dozen each of Spin-N-Glos and Flashing and Spinning Cheaters, for the action of these rotating driftbobbers are tops, and what many consider to be the best driftbobber when it comes to Alaska king catching. For the Spin-N-Glos, sizes 4, 2, 0 and 00 will meet a wide-range of needs, in similar selected color for the Corkies. On the Cheaters, size 2, 4 and 6 should cover it, in pink, orange, and chartreuse. The stiff, Mylar wings of the Cheaters are a favorite of many.
Rounding out the terminal gear selection are the lures. This is easy to get carried away on, but narrowing it down to a selection of spinner and spoons will make it easier. I’ll take 15 to 20 spinners and a dozen or so spoons. Last season I had excellent success on Blue Fox Vibrax, 5/8-ounce with size 6 blades. Silver blades with blue, orange, red and chartreuse bodies are good bets, as are the new Bleeding Blades and the standby silver/chartreuse blade combination. Pixies, in 7/8-ounce are must-haves, and the new color selection with flashy paint jobs have been working well. Don’t forget a couple dozen jigs, from ¼- to 1-ounce sizes. Jig colors should include peach/white, red/white, chartreuse/white, chartreuse/pink and black or purple. A few ¼- and ⅜-ounce West Coast Floats will work perfectly for floating both jigs and bait.
Clothing
For clothes, you want something that’s breathable yet warm, lightweight yet comfortable. If wearing waders, you want a base layer that’s warm and lets you breathe. The best I’ve found for this is from SportHill, and it’s called 3SP.
The 3SP clothing line is ideal for helping stay warm while wading in Alaska’s cold rivers, and the unique four-way stretch allows for easy, non-binding movement all day long. For the torso, SportHill’s 3SP is ideal on cooler, windy days, and it’s ability to stop winds in excess of 30 miles per hour make it perfect for much of Alaska. For a base layer, or on those warm days, their Invasion top works well. A light waterproof shell should also be carried. For waders, a felt-soled boot is a good, all-around choice. A cap, to shade the eyes for seeing into the water and blocking the sun, waders and wading boots, and you’re set on the clothes. I’ll often pack all my clothes with my rods, to pad them and save space. I’ve made my own rod case from 6-inch-wide PVC pipe, which allows a great deal of added gear, like clothes, to be stored amongst the rods.
Accessories
Rounding out the gear list are needed accessories, of which polarized glasses and a ThermaCell unit are priority. Native eyewear makes quality glasses that I’ve had outstanding success with in recent years, and Wiley X glasses have also caught my attention. Smoke and amber are good lens color choices for Alaska waters.
When I arrive in Alaska, I’ll drop by Sportsman’s Warehouse or another sporting goods outlet and pick up some cartridges for my ThermaCell unit, which I packed. Strapped on to my vest or pack, this can make or break a day of fishing on any Alaska river by keeping biting insects at bay.
If fishing near the road system, a cell phone is not a bad idea to have, just in case of an emergency, but you may want to find out about coverage prior to going. When hitting remote Alaska, if venturing out on your own float trip, it’s not a bad idea to rent a satellite phone, just in case.
Now, where does all this gear fit? Once it’s laid out, you’ll be surprised with how little tackle there really is, and it all fits perfectly into a G. Loomis Angling Backpack. This comfortable pack features multiple pockets and houses four mid-size utility tackle boxes. The main compartment fits clothes, reels and more. The pack can be worn when fishing, or items that you know you’ll only be using that day can be placed in a vest, lightening the load.Between the backpack and rod case, you’ve reached your two checked-bags allotment for most airlines. Put what other clothes you might need in a small carry-on or two, and you’re set. Once ready to head home, you can either have your fish processed and shipped to your residence, or drop by the store and pick up a cooler or waxed fish box to slip your frozen meat into. The fee you’ll pay for an extra checked bag is far cheaper than if you were to go buy 50 pounds of salmon at the local market once home.
Just in case you left out anything in the way of tackle, keep in mind that Alaska’s sporting goods stores—from the big box stores to the mom-and-pop operations—all specialize in fishing within their respective areas. This means they’ll have all the gear to meet your fishing needs. Should you forget something, need to replace lost tackle or simply want to know what the hot bites are coming on and where, it’s worth paying a visit to these stores; they can be a wealth of information, too.
Once you make your solo king trip to Alaska, you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to do. Chances are, you’ll be planning your next trip before even making it home. Get used to it, I’ve been doing the same for nearly 20 years, and couldn’t imagine it any other way.
For signed copies of Scott Haugen’s book, 300 Tips To More Salmon & Steelhead, send a check for $29.95 (free S&H) to Haugen Enterprises, P.O. Box 275, Walterville, OR 97489. For other books by the author, including the popular Flyfisher’s Guide to Alaska, and various cookbooks, visit www.scotthaugen.com.
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