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Alaska's salmon are known for spectacular
aerial acrobatics, knuckle-busting runs, and fine table fare. And none of
the Pacific salmon exemplify this stereotype more than the sockeye, or red,
salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka). In the month of July, over 600,000 reds will
return to the Alagnak River in southwest Alaska and migrate upriver into the
headwater lakes and streams of Katmai country. During the migration this
multitude of sockeye are accessible to anglers in huge numbers. The chrome
coloration of the salmon in the ocean is retained throughout the first part
of their upstream migration, as is the fine dining quality of their flesh.
And this is precisely when the discerning angler wants to catch them.
Catching a fresh sockeye salmon on a fly rod is always an
experience of the more memorable variety, and usually one that borders on
the breathtaking. The techniques used to catch chrome-bright sockeye on a
fly rod are simple in nature, and with a bit of practice or instruction,
they can be mastered quickly. However, as in real estate, location is
everything.
Winding along approximately 300 miles southwest of
Anchorage, the upper Alagnak River provides not only a huge number of salmon
for the angler to target, but ideal locations in which to fish for them.
Truly a world-class angling destination, the Wild & Scenic Alagnak flows
from twin lake sources, Nonvianuk and Kukaklek, in the Katmai National Park
and Preserve and travels some 65 miles until it empties into the Kvichak.
The upper river is characterized by brilliantly clear, swift waters that
provide ideal flyfishing conditions for the prolific sockeye run.
 As
the salmon migrate upriver, they will travel close to the banks of the river
and are often nose-to-tail, two or three fish across in less than three feet
of clear water. The multitude of channels in the famous upper braids section
of the river and the area 10 or 12 miles upstream of the braids provide
water where the sockeye are forced to slow and bunch together. Small
channels between islands and the shore are some of the best places on the
river to fish. As the reds move upstream to their spawning grounds, they
move at a fairly constant rate. Diversions, such as a small gravel shelf,
can force the fish to concentrate and pause, providing a better opportunity
for the angler.
One of the best ways to access the prime fishing on the
upper river is by raft, putting in at either headwater location. The nature
of the upper river lends itself to this option, as the lack of gravel bars
make the area nearly perfect for camping and spending four to six days on
the water.
The Alagnak runs mostly at a class I, with some class II
whitewater and one class III rapid about 12 miles below Kukaklek Lake.
Perhaps more of a worry than the river itself is the abundant population of
Katmai bruins lurking the banks in search of these same fish. During the
peak of the sockeye run, the entire length of the upper river literally
comes alive with Alaskan browns, and although serious run-ins are rare, the
wise angler is always vigilant, whether the native foragers are prowling the
river right next to the raft or not. For novice floaters, though, the
Alagnak presents little in the way of technical challenge, and it comes
highly recommended as a float for beginners looking to land themselves among
July's phenomenal return of reds.
To fully appreciate the sockeye, a little background is
necessary. As the salmon enter freshwater, they stop feeding and have to
rely on food stores in their body to provide energy for gonad development
and the stresses of spawning. One of the most interesting and visible
developments that a sockeye undergoes is its change in color and shape. What
were chrome-bright salmon in the ocean turn bright red after two to three
weeks in freshwater. The males often get a sharply contrasting green head in
addition to their red bodies. Fusiform shape gives way to a massive humped
back and hooked jaw on the males. The females undergo a similar change in
appearance, though not nearly as severe.
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Sockeye salmon traditionally spawn in shoreline areas of
lakes or the smaller streams that feed them in the late summer/early autumn
period. Digging a redd (nest) with her anal fin and tail, a female will
remove the silt from the gravel to create a depression in which to lay her
eggs. After the redd is prepared, one or more males will join her for
fertilization. The female then moves slightly forward of the redd containing
fertilized eggs and begins to dig another, both to deposit more eggs and
also to cover those already fertilized.
The eggs develop throughout the winter and emergence
ensues as water temperatures begin to increase. After the yolk sac is
completely consumed, the juvenile fish must swim to the water surface and
"gulp" air to inflate their swim bladder in order to achieve neutral
buoyancy. The juvenile sockeye typically spend one or more years in the
freshwater environment, feeding and growing on dipteran insects and pelagic
zooplankton. In the early fry stage of sockeye, the body markings and
coloration are quite distinct. Oval parr marks are spaced vertically along
the sides of the fish. At the time of smoltification, the fish become more
streamlined and silvery, and the parr marks begin to become obscured.
After smoltification and the leaving of natal systems,
young sockeye enter the marine environment for one to four years. When the
juvenile fish migrate towards the ocean in the early spring, they must
overcome changes in the number and kind of predators to be avoided, changes
to the physiological processes, and significant alterations in both their
feeding patterns and social interactions. Feeding on zooplankton,
crustaceans, and larval fish, they can grow to a size of up to 14 pounds;
however, the typical mature sockeye weighs 6 to 10 pounds. top of page
The migration back to the watershed of their birth is one
of nature's great wonders. With feeding patterns alone, a sockeye in the
ocean can travel in excess of 3,700 kilometers in a single year. As it
approaches time for the sockeye to spawn, they return to their place of
birth by (most likely) a combination of highly developed olfactory glands
and some sort of magnetic imprinting. Returning to the system of their
birth, they begin the spawning process and thus complete the life cycle of
the sockeye.
The presence of sockeye salmon in freshwater systems is of
great importance to those systems. Marine-derived nutrients are delivered to
the system as the salmon start to die after spawning. The eggs provide a
major food source for the resident fish (rainbow trout, Arctic grayling,
whitefish, etc.). The juvenile salmon provide important forage for avian and
aquatic predators-both in lake and river systems. Mature returning salmon
provide a huge food source for the many brown bears and eagles present in
the area. Even the flesh of dead salmon provides an important food source
for a multitude of creatures, including those of avian, terrestrial, and
aquatic varieties. Arguably the most important of the Pacific salmon, the
sockeye do far more for both the aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems than
simply provide ample sport fishing opportunities.
It is a cycle of vital importance to many organisms in the
surrounding area. Just to be on a river such as the Alagnak when the sockeye
return is a memorable event. The sights to behold seem to have no end. There
are bears diving in the water after fish, eagles waiting to eat the bears'
scraps, and literally thousands of salmon swimming right past you every day.
Seeing thousands of fish swim little more than a rod length away is
exciting, as is knowing that each fish is another opportunity to hookup.
Fresh sockeye salmon are thought by some to be a fish that
can only be snagged. Despite being less than ethical, the statement is also
(thankfully) completely untrue. With the proper setup and in the right
location, these fish can be legally and ethically pursued in a manner that
is very similar to deepwater nymphing for trout. Depth control and providing
an easy opportunity for the fish to take the fly are the keys. As sockeye
turn red and morphidite in shape, they are willing to chase flies to a
greater extent, but not so when the fish are fresh from salt, chrome bright
and full of energy. That's when this nymphing technique is deadly.
To catch these amazing fish, a simple setup is needed. The
preferred combination is an 8-foot, 6-inch through 9-foot rod, with a
matching reel and weight forward floating line, lots of backing, and a
reliable drag system. Either a 7 or 8-weight rod is recommended, especially
in the heavier current where reds like to congregate. In some rivers, a
sink-tip line might be needed or preferable, but on the Alagnak River, it's
just not necessary.
The leader is somewhat unusual but very simple.
Abrasion-resistant leader material (a 6-foot length of 15-pound test) is
connected from the butt section to a small barrel swivel. A 4-inch dropper
is tied off the barrel swivel, and an abrasion-resistant tippet (a 4-foot
length of 10-pound test) is tied to the other end.
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Maxima is one of the preferred lines for leaders because
of its strength and durability. Split-shot (1 or 2 bb or 3/0) are placed on
the dropper line and a Trapper fly is connected to the tippet. The most
important component of this rig is the weight. Depending on the water
velocity and depth, the weight should be enough to quickly make contact with
the bottom, but not so much as to slow the drift of the fly. An angler's
best bet is to experiment with the weight at each location until the proper
drift is achieved.
The purpose of the dropper rig is for the weight to barely
tap along the bottom, 4 to 6 inches below the fly. Since the sockeye are
swimming along the bottom, this presentation ensures your fly is at eye
level with the fish. The easier it is for the passing fish to take your fly,
the more hookups will result. The fly mentioned, the Trapper fly, developed
by Nelson "Trapper" Young, is a simple red nymph tied on a Mustad 37132 #10
or #12 hook and tied with thin estez or yarn. Personally, we fish a few
variables-flies in blood red, salmon-egg orange, or rust brown, which
resemble very small shrimp.
The fly is beautifully uncomplicated; the principle it
works on is location and opportunity. Sockeye are not piscavorous like other
Pacific salmon, and in addition (as with all Pacific salmon), they stop
actively feeding once in freshwater. The fly is presented at such a precise
depth and in such an unobtrusive manner that the fish simply open their
mouths and accept the offering. The fact that sockeye are not actively
chasing the fly makes location so much more important. This is like the
scenario when after a big dinner, a small piece of chocolate is put on your
plate. You may be full, but the chocolate is right there, and you can
probably make room for it. top of page
On the Alagnak, sockeye anglers will literally have
thousands of fish swim right by them in a typical day. With precise depth
control and an abundance of fish-and the crystal clear water of the upper
Alagnak-anglers have the opportunity to watch their prey open their mouths
and take the fly. Then, a good, hard hook-set is needed for the salmon's
hard mouths and the often-long battles that ensue.
A fresh sockeye fights much like a steelhead, spending
plenty of time in the air. In fast current, it is not uncommon for an angler
to be taken to his backing on the first run of the fish. A reliable drag
system is a must here; within seconds, a fresh sockeye will make several
jumps and strip dozens of feet of line off the reel. Slowing these fish down
is necessary to increase the odds of them coming to hand.
With at least 600,000 fish returning to the river every
July, anglers can expect to hook anywhere from 60 to 80 fish a day during
peak times and to land as many as their arms and tackle will allow. A
typical day for clients at Alaska Trophy Adventures on the upper Alagnak
this past July was 60 to 80 fish hooked and 20 to 30 landed per person. The
average size for a sockeye caught in the Alagnak system is 6 to 10 pounds
with a few larger fish taken every week. A five fish limit per day is
enforced on the Alagnak for those anglers wishing to take some table fare
home. Rich, deep red flesh-often noted as the best of the salmon
species-awaits those wishing to keep a few fish.
Often overlooked, sockeye salmon should never be
underestimated in their strength and willingness to take a properly
presented fly. The waters of the upper Alagnak provide both ample and ideal
opportunities for the angler wishing to pursue these fish. The jet boats
used by Alaska Trophy Adventures and the absence of any other fishing
operation within 30 miles of river ensure our anglers get to the ideal
spots. These waters are home to some of the finest sockeye fishing in the
world. If you're tired of the crowds and looking for a true wilderness
fishing experience, then don't miss out on this truly world-class sockeye
salmon fishery. Chances are, you'll love it.
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Lance Irving graduated with Honors from Michigan State in
2001 with a degree in Fisheries and Wildlife Management and a Bailey Scholar
Specialization in Stream Ecology. He has guided the past five seasons in
Alaska, fishing many of the top regions, including Iliamna Lake and the
Alagnak, Kukaklek, and Talachulitna rivers. He is currently employed as the
head flyfishing guide at Alaska Trophy Adventures Lodge & Outcamps.
Charlie Summerville is a 16-year veteran guide and the
owner/operator of Alaska Trophy Adventures Lodge & Outcamps based out of
King Salmon, AK. An accomplished Bush pilot and guide, Charlie has fished
nearly every drainage from Iliamna Lake south to the Aleutian Islands and
presently operates several other wilderness camps for steelhead, kings, and
silver salmon on the Alaska Peninsula.
They can be reached in King Salmon at Box 31, King Salmon,
AK 99613 or through their website,
www.alaskatrophyadventures.com. |
