FISH ON VALDEZ! by Marcus Weiner ...for more articles about Alaska fishing subscribe to Fish Alaska Magazine!

Valdez rallies up the spectacular in an Alaskan experience and then offers an expanse of sensation in one tidy package, wrapped in a setting of unrivaled beauty and laced with the wispy gold trim of countless big fish tales. An area of wondrous variety and stunning scenery, it is a jewel even amidst the breathtaking procession of wilderness and sea that is Southcentral Alaska.

If halibut is your fish of choice, then embark on your search for a barn door and battle the big flatfish from Valdez, picking up lingcod, yelloweye and black rockfish as a mere bonus to your day - and your freezer. Or maybe salmon is your quarry, the arched bend of a rod making your mouth water, your arms quivering at the thought of a taut line hooked into the acrobatic coho or noble chinook. If that is the epitome of your version of an angling heaven, you can choose from any of the five species, depending on timing, with most folks targeting the colossal return of pinks and one of Alaska’s leading silver salmon runs.

But perhaps all that is a bit too conventional for your tastes. Maybe your heart doesn’t race in anticipation of chasing yet another trophy sport fish in Alaska’s waters that are, quite honestly, teeming with them. Valdez is like any other port you say, prime territory should it have had the fortune of being set apart, out on its own, but only a mere replica of hundreds of places just like it in the Greatland. Sign up with one of the fleet of Valdez charter services, like Fish Central, Orion, or Northern Comfort Charters and journey out to the land of the salmon shark. See if being on the small end of a skirmish with a 400-pound behemoth doesn’t change that tune.

A testament to the boundless diversity of the Last Frontier, Valdez offers wildlife in terrific abundance. From land or from sea, the creatures that inhabit this little corner of Prince William Sound make themselves readily available for the tourist and veteran Sourdough alike. Expect to witness sea lions, sea otters, Orcas, humpback whales, eagles and puffins while sight-seeing on almost any marine expedition. On my most recent road trip to Valdez, I witnessed caribou, moose, and a black bear, all within a couple of miles on the north side of Thompson Pass, though the sights are so common I stopped only to stare at Bridal Veil and Horsetail Falls on the Lowe River. Valdez is an awesome combination of great fishing, magnificent scenery, and equally wonderful people, beckoning anyone with a taste for adventure to this little slice of Alaska.

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HISTORY

In 1778 Captain James Cook, the British explorer so famous for his Pacific endeavors, arguably became the first non-Native American to enter Prince William Sound. He penned it “Sandwich Sound” after his patron the Earl of Sandwich. However, the map creators thought otherwise and renamed it after Prince William, who at the time was the Duke of Clarence, and became William IV, the ‘sailor king’ of Great Britain. Cook was responsible for the naming of Hinchinbrook, Montague and Bligh islands as well, though this time he proposed monikers that stuck.

With the Sound named, it was now time for the town to grab a handle. In 1790, a Spanish cartographer, Lieutenant Salvador Fidalgo, entered the area while on an exploratory mission to determine Russian involvement in the peninsula and to establish a Spanish claim on the land. Finding the spot to be a pleasing location, Fidalgo named the town in honor of the head of the Spanish Marines at the time, Admiral Antonio Valdez.

From its early beginnings until the winter of 1897-98, Valdez was a peaceful, stoic little town. But that all changed fairly quickly, once a group of gold seekers came roaring into town. They had followed what had been comically termed as an “established trail” over Valdez glacier and into the interior, though they were probably surprised to find neither a town nor any trail to speak of. This became the impetus for the creation of the town, which, by the end of the year, entertained a hardy population of four thousand. Adventure seekers mostly, some were there to stay but most only planned on living the residential life as long as it took to drag a big bag full of rich ore from the area, hoping to exit Valdez as fast and easy as they had arrived.

By the fall of 1898, the U.S. Army was into the act, as Lieutenant William Abercrombie’s men began developing a trail through Keystone Canyon and over Thompson Pass. Due to its strategic position, the Army deemed the route to be the military trail to Eagle, Alaska, which was fundamental to their long-term Alaskan plans. This boom facilitated the building of Fort Liscum, the establishment of a telegraph line from Seattle to Eagle, and further improved to Keystone trail. The population of Valdez soared to 7,000 and early signs of the boom-bust economy were present.

By the 1920s, Valdez began to shrink with the completion of the Alaska Railroad from Fairbanks to Anchorage. Now there were multiple points of entry into the interior and by the middle of the decade, the population was back down to about 500.

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On March 27, 1964, the town was rocked by an earthquake registering 9.2 on the Richter scale, a quake that originated just 45 miles west of Valdez. The entire area of the town site was condemned when engineers realized that it was built on unstable ground.

Valdez again gained entrance into the national and in fact, international, spotlight in 1989. The largest oil spill in North American history took place just off the coast at Bligh Reef in Prince William Sound, with Captain Joseph Hazelwood piloting his Exxon Valdez into infamy. In an effort to clean up the oil as quickly as possible, the town of Valdez grew to nearly 10,000 people.

Today Valdez is a stable community of about 4,400 people. Many are employed in the oil industry, specifically, Alyeska Pipeline Company, and the majority of the balance toils for the city, entertains a place in the tourism industry, or works in one of several arenas of the fishing business.

FISHING

In researching the wealth of fishing opportunities that abound from Valdez, Fish On Alaska discovered that what most everyone already knows is indeed true. Valdez is one of those few rare spots where nearly everything can be fished, whether you favor salmon, halibut, or other bottom fish. Primarily a marine fishery, Valdez is the one-stop shop of saltwater fishing. Just book your trip to this Prince William Sound paradise, and almost completely regardless of the time of year, something will be biting.

Halibut

With most fish ranging from 10 to 300 pounds, halibut are quite abundant in Prince William Sound and the Gulf of Alaska. Halibut can be caught from February to December with peak fishing from late May until early August. Popular spots are the Valdez Narrows, Knowles Head, Red Head, Galena and Sawmill Bays as well as the “barn door “ halibut holes in the Gulf of Alaska. Most skippers that I talked with had their own private holes, which speaks volumes about a spectacular fishing bounty to be had. Anglers can harvest two per day with four in possession.

Effective techniques include a stout 5.5’ - 6.5’ rod with at least 300 yards of 80-pound braided Dacron on an 4/0 ocean-recommended reel. New line technologies have created stronger lines of thinner diameter and it is now possible to fish with smaller reels.

Artificial lure fishermen can use a lead jig with a variety of rubber tails, or metal lures built to represent baitfish such as herring or needlefish. Jigging requires a constant motion of the lure from the bottom to about five feet up and is often productive at times when bait isn’t working. I was surprised that these jigs were only 12-18 ounces, since I am used to employing anywhere from 3 to 5-pound weights to bring my bait to the bottom in Cook Inlet. The tides in Valdez are pretty reasonable with an average difference of 12’ between high and low tides. As many anglers can attest, halibut fishing becomes a lot like work when you are using a 4-pound weight in a big current at 300-feet or deeper.

When fishing with bait, most fishermen will rig with a swivel, a two-foot leader of 150 to 250-pound test, weight adequate to keep the bait on or near the bottom, and a 16/0 circle hook topped off with herring, octopus, cod, crab, needlefish and / or salmon heads. Octopus is a personal favorite as it is extremely durable and helps reduce the number of bait checks. Remember to keep your finger on the line when you lower the bait to avoid backlash and tangles. Gently jig the bait by raising and lowering the rod tip. It’s worth mentioning here that not only has it been my personal experience but also the theory of many top halibut anglers that big bait will yield a big fish. While there is certainly not any conclusive evidence to substantiate our claim and there are more than a few opinions differing from ours on the subject, it is a matter of great interest to us that we’re currently testing and will report on in a later issue.

Salmon Shark

Salmon sharks are amazingly abundant in Prince William Sound. One possible reason why the population is so numerous and seems to be growing at a rapid rate is the record-breaking runs of salmon in the 1990s and into the 2000s. I talked with Milo at Fish Central and Dave Wiley of Orion Charters and both talked of schools of thousands of sharks at locations like Point Fidalgo.

Salmon sharks average in the 300 to 500-pound range, although I heard some talk about sharks stretching to 10 feet in length and tipping the scales around the 1000-pound range. Now, those might very well be fish tales, but as to their sources, I’m inclined to believe them. There are a few charters whom I met that will target this incredible sport fish from Valdez, which we recommend if you choose this powerful predator as your prey. The technicalities involved in bringing a 400-pound, none too happy salmon shark to the surface alone make it worthwhile to employ a little professional backup.

Salmon sharks are voracious eaters of salmon, and once you hook into one, be prepared for a long and difficult fight. Throughout my interviews in Valdez, this was the prevalent theme. One angler went so far as to refer to the species line-fighting ability as “king salmon on steroids, with three turbochargers and an afterburner.” This speaks highly of the fight in the fish, and it is no wonder that fishing them requires at least 10 to 20 feet of 1/8” braided steel wire and a 12/0 J-hook. A salmon carcass is used for the bait in a typical salmon shark rigging. Salmon shark fishing is unique among marine angling and even similar to hunting in the fact that you spend a great deal of time locating the shark school before you begin fishing. Once you find them, start a chum slick of salmon blood and entrails and then get ready for the pandemonium to ensue.

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If you are successful in hooking one of these brutes, you will want to exercise care when landing the fish to avoid injury. Do not bring these fish into your boat alive. Most commonly, the use of a gaff, harpoon, and firearm are needed to subdue the hooked salmon shark. When the fish is dead, it should be immediately bled and gutted and the temperature of the fish should be kept down for best care of the meat. Easy Freeze in Valdez at (907) 835-4208 is the best place we found to go for processing and flash freezing your catch. They have considerable experience with salmon shark.

Rockfish and Lingcod

To some, lingcod or yelloweye rockfish are among the best-tasting fish in Alaska. They are close to the top of my own list, as a matter of fact. Yelloweye, Tiger, Black and China rockfish, as well as lingcod, can be found in many of the same holes and by using the same techniques as when halibut fishing. You will also find productive spots at rocky outcroppings throughout the Sound. I like to use jigs for rockfish since the action can be quite fast and furious and I don’t want to spend a great deal of time re-baiting my hook.

From May 1 to September 15, daily rockfish limits are five per day and ten in possession, with only two per day and two in possession as non-pelagic. Consult the ADF&G regulation booklet for a color chart of Alaska’s rockfish. Lingcod can be fished from July 1 to December 31, with two per day and four in possession allowed over 35”. There are some big lingcod in the sound with many taken each year in the 50 and 60-pound ranges.

Silver Salmon

Silver salmon are one of the strongest fighting and most sought after fish in Valdez, and with the incredible runs of hundreds of thousands of cohos, anglers regularly catch their limits in the Valdez Arm and Narrows, off the beaches of Allison Point, Anderson Bay, and along Mineral and Gold Creeks. At the beginning of the season, the southern end of Bligh Island is as close to a guarantee as you can get, and then later in the season, Potato Point is worth a try. Fish ranging from 6-20 pounds can be caught from August until mid September.

A medium weight 7-8.5’ rod with a high quality bait or spin-casting reel is adequate, 200 yards of 10 to 25-pound test making the setup complete. Make sure to have an adequate supply of swivels and variety of weights handy, as you may need to experiment at getting the lure or bait to the correct height in the water column.

Cohos will strike at roe, flies, and lures. Many anglers will soak roe or herring, while others spin cast with size 4-6 Vibrax or 1/2 ounce Pixies in silver or gold with orange, yellow, pink, or chartreuse attractors. Lures like Flatfish, Kwikfish, Krocodile, Daredevils, Tee-Spoons, and Crippled Herring can be effective, as are a variety of jigs.

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Boat anglers will troll with a flasher, herring dodger, pink lady or hootchie tied on, in addition to a whole or cut-plug herring. Others use a downrigger to get the attractor to the right depth. Still others will “mooch,” using cut-plug herring and a banana weight. Whatever your preference, the bait should look like a five course meal and spin in circles like a wounded fish. Some of my best fishing days have been mooching for silvers. When you find the school, and they usually are within the top 60 feet of water, then the action is fast and furious. The four hours around high tide are generally productive

All marine waters north of a line from Potato Point to Entrance Point, basically the Valdez Arm, allow for a limit of six silvers because this is an ADF&G “terminal harvest area,” while the rest of Prince William Sound sports a three fish limit. Boat fisherman will line up along the shoreline from the Harbor to Shoup Bay and most folks will catch their six silvers. Consult local regulations for special considerations or emergency regulations when fishing any area.

King Salmon

A king salmon fishery is in the process of establishment in Valdez Arm with a stocking of kings in 1999. I heard from several captains that these were to return to Valdez Glacier Stream. Time will tell if these fish will return. Keep your fingers crossed, though, as the beginnings of a steady return would only enhance the attraction of this wonderful marine fishery.

There are feeder kings year round in Prince William Sound, ranging anywhere from two to 30 pounds and that can be caught in much the same manner as trolling or mooching for silvers. An angler can have two per day and four in possession over 16” and 10 in possession under 16”. These feeder kings are immature fish that are benefiting from the rich feeding ground of Prince William Sound and are the ones that occasionally have white meat, dubbed the “white king.” If you happen to land one, get it on the grill quick, as they are excellent to eat. Best fishing for feeder kings is February to April and is usually quite relaxing, as they are not heavily fished.

Pink Salmon

The humpy run in Valdez is tremendous. At times, it is hard to get to the silvers because you can’t avoid catching pinks. The Solomon Creek hatchery releases over 100 million pink salmon fry each year. That release result in runs of several million pinks per year! Pinks have a two-year lifecycle and it is during the even years that the stronger runs occur.

Use a medium to light action rod from 6-8’, a spin or bait-casting reel with 200 yards of 8 to 10-pound test. Fishermen have great success when casting medium sized spinners or spoons in the ¼ to ½-ounce range from the beach at Allison Point or at the breakwater beach in the harbor. From a boat, troll or cast along the shoreline of Allison Point. These fish range from three to six pounds and attack lures readily. Bag limits are six per day and 12 in possession, though that number relates to total salmon kept, so you could only harvest six pinks per day if you had no other types of salmon.

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Chum Salmon

Found from early July to September, chum salmon are rarely mentioned in Valdez. However, when fishing for pinks, silvers, or feeder kings, an occasional “dog” will be hooked and earnestly fought, all while the excited angler thinks they have caught a world record silver. Consequently, most anglers are using silver tackle when they land chums.

Chums, like sockeyes, can be difficult to hook in the open ocean, while they get easier to entice when headed for bays or inshore around the beaches associated with spawning streams. In this case, a spoon might entice a chum to strike, or a lure that represents a herring, candlefish, smolt or plankton could also have success. The current Alaska record is over 30 pounds, and this often overlooked fish puts up quite a fight.

FRESHWATER

Red Salmon

Most of the sockeye salmon in Valdez are caught in the Robe River along a stretch of the stream that is a fly-fishing only area. This portion of the river serves as a holding area for reds, silvers, and pinks. Anglers must use an un-weighted, single hook fly with a gap between the point and shank of 3/8” or less.

Weights can be used as long as they are 18” or more away from the fly. Anglers can have three salmon per day and three in possession from the Robe, and one can be a red and one a silver.

Use a 7 to 8’ medium bait casting or spinning combination with 150 yards of 10-20 pound test. Try a variety of Alaskan spinners and spoons discussed for other species. Fly fisherman might use a 7 to 8-weight rod that is 9-9 ½’ and a matching reel with 100 yards of 30-pound backing, and a 10 to 15-pound leader from three to five feet long. Try flies like the Russian River fly, Comet, Kenai Fly or Egg-Sucking Leech from size 3 to 7 hooks. It is often difficult to entice the sockeye to strike, but patience and good touch will result in hookups.

Dolly Varden Char

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Dolly Varden Char is available in many Valdez streams. Dolly fishing is open year round in all of the waters in the Valdez area road system with a bag limit of 10 per day and 10 in possession with one over 12”. Fish streams that host spawning salmon are an exceptional target for Dollies. Expect to catch fish in the 10 to 18-inch range, with the occasional larger fish landing in your net. Since this fishery is not greatly pressured in Valdez, there is probably some big fish out there just waiting for your fly to float down and top the water.

Dollies can be taken on single eggs, dry flies like mayflies, mosquitoes and caddis, wet flies like smolt or alevin patterns, or smaller spinners and spoons. During the spring, concentrate on outlet streams on lakes and in the salt water. The trick is to find movements of juvenile salmon on inlet or outlet creeks and to find the spots where Dollies are busy ravenously feeding on them. By August and then on throughout the winter months, fish for dollies in lakes like Robe Lake or try Robe and Lowe Rivers.

Rainbow Trout

In an effort to establish a rainbow trout population, fish are released each year into Worthington and Blueberry Lakes in the Thompson Pass Area as well as Ruth Pond in downtown Valdez. Try small spinners and single eggs to entice these stocked fish, which are easy to get to and showing strong signs of a stable population.

Other outdoor activities in Valdez

With many options for outdoor activities in the area, including kayaking, sailing, rafting, biking, hiking and camping, Valdez is a great destination for the whole family. I met with Heddie at Anadyr Sea Kayaking, Hiking and Sailing Adventures and found out that they not only give half and full day kayaking trips, complete with water taxi transportation, to places like Shoup and Columbia Glaciers, but also two to ten-day remote wilderness kayak camping. In addition, their harbor office offers many interesting items for sale as well as computers with Internet access. Contact them at 1-800-TO -KAYAK.

Keystone Adventures offers guided rafting trips on the Lowe River through Keystone Canyon. Several companies provide sailing adventures to enjoy or there are also the ever-popular trips through Prince William Sound on Prince William Sound Cruises and Tours. RV and tent camping is available in numerous parks throughout the city, where trails for hiking and biking are prevalent. The Valdez Goat Trail, Solomon Gulch Trail, Mineral Creek Canyon Trail and Shoup Glacier Trail are a few of the spots utilized as places for popular day hikes.

The Valdez Convention and Civic Center holds many functions throughout the year and has adequate room to host and cater to groups of 500 people. Each year the Edward Albee theatre conference and presentation of the Last Frontier Playwright award takes place, drawing hundreds of local and national artists to the town, including the famous playwright himself. Keep an eye on their schedule for upcoming events.

In all Valdez is a beautiful town, with great people and awesome sights. For the non-angler there are several other outdoor activities and opportunities for sightseeing that are of rare proportions. For fisherman it is a paradise, and to our readers we exclaim “Fish On Valdez”!

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