by Mark Glassmaker
Springtime in Alaska is marked by longer days and melting snow. It reveals a drab landscape of dead vegetation, void of color, and is without question the least appealing face of Alaska’s distinctive four seasons. But beneath this sullen exterior, a bounty of new growth awakens from its winter slumber. Perhaps nowhere is this new growth more vibrant than in southeast Alaska rivers. For beneath the retreating shore ice and remaining snow is an anadromous silver lining. Though spring snowstorms are a possibility, fishing the Situk is definitely rewarding.
Beginning in late March, spring runs of wild steelhead are entering these tea colored streams after their instinctive sojourn at sea. White bellies, black backs, and parasitic sea lice represent their life in the ocean. As they push forward against the relentless current of their natal rivers, many fall victim to awaiting predators, the most efficient of which are hungry sea lions that guard the river mouths where fresh and saltwater meet. Telltale scars, missing fins, and torn flesh reveal that many returning steelhead came very close to never again seeing the gravel they emerged from. [emember_protected custom_msg=’This content is available for subscribers only.’]
These fish have escaped near death for their entire existence. This will to survive, when coupled with their overall wild beauty, is why steelhead trout top the list of sport fish worldwide. These rainbow trout that somewhere in evolution transitioned from freshwater to sea are truly one of nature’s most mysterious and awesome creatures. Like salmon, juvenile steelhead undergo a remarkable transition by which they acclimate to saltwater and eventually migrate to the ocean. There they achieve remarkable weight gains in the rich marine environment and return to their home rivers—big, bright, and full of life.
Although many Alaska rivers see fall runs of steelhead, spring fish seem especially unique. They come at a time when most rivers are still waking from winter hibernation and most importantly, have no salmon to catch. The steelhead that fill the rivers of Southeast are an Alaskan angler’s dream and offer a timely fix for deprived, winter weary souls.
As their silver bright tails dance atop cold, snow fed waters, so do the hearts of pursuant fishers. Feeling the arm numbing tug of a wild steelier as it races for the safety of submerged cover will leave even the most experienced anglers trembling in their waders.
This is not just your everyday trip to the river or a routine hookup with an ordinary salmon. For many, this is the pinnacle of river fishing, a once in a lifetime connection that only a privileged few will ever experience. Perhaps the only feeling that can rival the take of this magnificent fish is the heartfelt thrill of seeing it wiggle from your hand and swim away.
For unlike salmon, steelhead trout do not always perish after returning to the river to reproduce. Like those that dream of their silver sides and rose-colored gill plates, these gray ghosts will again return the following season and small southeast Alaska rivers will teem with the unmistakable sparkle of spring steel. Nowhere is this more evident than when surrounded by the magnificence of the Situk River near Yakutat. Like a red carpet rolled out in front of a majestic castle, the Situk River carves its way through mist filled forests in the shadow of magnificent Mt. St. Elias. With headwaters deep in the snow-covered peaks, the clear waters of the Situk begin above Mountain Lake and flow into Situk Lake. From there, the main stem of the river travels 22 miles to the Pacific Ocean. In route, the Situk combines with two major tributaries, the West Fork, originating from Redfield Lake, and Old Situk, which comes from a small spring fed lake near Russell Fiord.
Despite its size (an average of 70 feet wide and three feet deep), the Situk is easily one of the most productive rivers in all of southeast Alaska. It supports all five species of Pacific salmon, both fall and spring runs of steelhead, plus resident rainbow trout and Dolly Varden populations. According to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, the remarkable productivity of the Situk is a combined result of consistent, clean flows, miles of perfect spawning gravel, and high levels of dissolved nutrients. This prolific productivity has given the Situk a worldwide reputation, and from the early 1980s until recently, visitors to this small, fish filled stream multiplied on a yearly basis.
Unlike many long discovered, more accessible Alaska rivers, the Situk has enjoyed an unassuming brilliance, largely the result of its isolated location and less than inviting climate. It is actually more of a stream than a river, and it winds through an old growth forest that receives an average of 150 inches of rain and 200 inches of snow annually. Green moss paints every tree, and log jams the size of small buildings serve as a reminder of seasonal high water.
Glacier bears, typical black bears, and coastal brownies are always nearby. Bald eagles constantly patrol the skies and cry from the tops of black spruce, shrouded in mist. This is time standing still, a place pictured as perfectly as Mother Nature intended . . . almost.
Situk Tips and Techniques
Walk Softly and Catch Big Fish! Steelhead fishing techniques on the Situk River are not much different than those employed throughout the Pacific Northwest, except that unbaited artificial lures are required. The method you use to connect with one of these searun torpedoes is really a matter of how you like to fish. Some like to do it all on the fly, and some prefer drift fishing with a baitcaster. Still others like to suspend their favorite jig from a float or bobber, and of course everyone enjoys seeing a rod nearly exit the boat from a typical plug bite. Indeed, there is more than one way to fool these fish, but even with all the above techniques in your arsenal, hooking these giant searun trout with consistency is much easier said than done.
Forecast: Rain!
Weather on the Situk can have you saying, “What a beautiful day, and what am I doing here . . .” all in the same breath. Moisture from the nearby Pacific is a constant threat, and if it is not raining, it will be soon. Most regular steelhead anglers know rain is a vital part of the equation and that rain and steelhead are forever connected. The Situk River drains a coastal rainforest that receives an average of 150 inches of rain every year. Rain in southeast Alaska is deliberate and heavy; it will soak through even the most advanced rain gear. It can be combined with winds that will literally blow your drift boat upriver, even in heavy current. The rain can freeze and turn to snow, regardless of the season. Make no mistake, this is rough country and everything is soaking wet.
Despite constant precipitation, the Situk shows a remarkable ability to stay in shape, even after several days of hard rain. It has a clean gravel base and large carrying capacity, and although its level will elevate, it rarely gets too dirty to fish. Water levels will drop quickly with even the slightest break in the clouds. Thus, a wide variety of gear is a must. You will need to be prepared for low, clear conditions one day and a raging torrent the next.
Bringing too much fishing tackle is impossible! The other factor to prepare for is the overwhelming amount of trees, logjams, and vegetation that line the river like concertina wire around a prison. The best holes are always below a tangle of logs or against an undercut bank of overgrown alders. Dozens of offerings that missed their mark decorate the trees around productive water. If bringing a wide variety of gear is critical, making sure you have plenty of backup is equally, if not more important. Wal-Mart is not around the corner, just more snags and hundreds of ocean bright steelhead!
Timing is everything! You can visit the river on the exact same dates three years in a row and never have even close to the same trip. Weather, water conditions, run strength, and many other variables will all chart the course of your trip. In an angling arena with so much flux, it is useful to note and benefit from the constants. [/emember_protected] [emember_protected scope=”not_logged_in_users_only”]
- Need to subscribe? Now’s a good time! Check out our current subscription specials!
- Already a subscriber? Login below to access all of our online articles and content!